Going out for a drink in Paris is not for the light of wallet. A cocktail will be around 10€ and a glass of wine will start at 5€ in any basic café. For some, that may seem like a pittance to fire up the ole joie de vivre in a such a charming city. But we mortals who don’t suffer from weighty billfolds nor the ability to call it a night after one drink, these prices pack far too much of a monetary punch for comfort. And it seems that we are not alone in this.
Any warm night in Paris will see the drinking hordes descend upon what is easily one of the best “bars” in the city, the Canal Saint Martin, specifically the portion called, “Bassin des Marais”. Friends of mine had been telling me about it for years, but I’d only recently gotten around to checking it out due to staying in a far less than optimal Airbnb apartment nearby. And no, this is not some ironically-named bar, it is the actual banks of Canal Saint Martin where it emerges from an underground stint going into the Seine River and passing through a series of locks which are lined with lush, tree-filled sidewalks.
It’s here where all manner of Parisians from younger to older (well, mostly younger) and natives to expats roll up with a group of friends, something to eat and a selection of bottles. Some even go all out with incredibly fancy gourmet spreads of fine cheeses and other gourmet bites. There seem to be few codes of conduct beyond the basic, don’t be an asshole. Also, there is no definitive alcohol of choice. While this is France, the majority of canal-side personal pop-up bars will be comprised of some sort a wine selection. But, others bring beer and harder liquor as well.
Undoubtedly, it’s not terribly pleasant for the neighbors whose windows open on to the canal. Even though most stick to the non-asshole rule, it can get noisy at times and you hear this soft rumble of wine and charcuterie-fueled humanity when you get within one block of it. But, it is a generally well-mannered crowd and an incredibly easy way to pass an evening, especially if you manage to pick up a good deal on a Châteauneuf-du-Pape to enjoy like I did.
It is however a fleeting bar scene given that the Paris weather is both unpredictable and inherently inclement. A drop below 20C will see Bar Canal Saint Martin quickly empty and rain will shutter it completely. So, if you find yourself in Paris and the weather is nice, more than likely the bar will be open if you want to stop in to this BYOB canal-side bar.
