02-08-2014

A further history of Priorat’s “clos” wineries

closos

When we started researching the first edition of our Priorat book two years ago, one of the big goals was to unravel all the various versions of history that are known to crisscross DOQ Priorat. Sometimes a version is told to bolster a reputation, other times it’s just remembered poorly, and other times it’s told to maliciously discredit another. History, much like beauty, is quite subjective but if you toss all of the known versions in to a pot and simmer them for awhile, you eventually come to what seems to be a cohesive story and the generally agreed upon actual history.

It’s important to mention all of this because the history that is oft repeated is the one of René Barbier III arriving in 1979 and 10 years later leading a band of rebellious young winemakers to release the famous Priorat wines that we all know today. This is overall true, but in a selective nature. They were brought there due to what Scala Dei was doing starting in 1974 in that they were making truly wonderful wines that were attracting the attention of people with a good eye like René. But that’s just one part of the larger story.

Most people think that there were only five protagonists in this initial adventure: Clos Mogador (Barbier), Clos Martinet (Pérez), Clos Dofí (Palacios), Clos Erasmus (Glorian), and Clos de l’Obac (Pastrana). These are the five who stayed and continue today, but as an article on Vins i Olis points out with a new project, there were actually 10 and the wineries of Clos Setién (Fernando Garcia), Clos Basté Krüg (Toni Basté), Clos Ballesteros Jove (Antonio Rosario), Clos Garsed (Adrian Garsed), and Clos dels Llops (Luc Van Iseghem) are rarely if ever mentioned.

It’s forgivable if people refer to only the five that are still actively producing wine. We did this in our book actually, referring to them as the “Big Five” despite the fact we had heard rumblings that there were a number of “fifth Beatles” floating around. But beyond this simplification, it’s also the fact that this Rubicon vintage of 1989, despite having 10 different “Clos” names was actually the same wine. Also, we’ve heard various accounts that while it garnered a lot of attention, it actually wasn’t that good (note that we’ve yet to taste it, so take that with a grain of salt.) Some of this may be in hindsight because if you compare most any wine from 25 years ago to the masterful wines that are coming out of the “Big Five” these days it would most likely come up short. But as this Vins i Olis article mentions, it is true that despite being a “Priorat wine”, these were not “DOQ certified wines” because they only hit 12.5% alcohol and the DOQ minimum for red wine is 13.5%. An amusing side note, they were a veritable bargain at what was then, 9€ a bottle.

It’s important to bring light to all of this as we intend to incorporate an updated history (set in stone, it is never) in the book and to mention the El Projecte “Closos” which was created by Jesús Viñuales and Jonatan Rizo who have worked for the last four years to assemble a collection of all the bottles from this first Clos vintage. It’s most definitely a worthy project to have completed in this, the 60th anniversary of the creation of the DO Priorat, the 40th anniversary since Scala Dei restarted, the 25th anniversary since the “Big Ten” vintage, and the 5th anniversary of Catalonia’s loving overlord, Spain finally admitting to how wickedly fantastic Priorat wines are and granting the “Q” certification that is only held by Priorat and La Rioja. Yes, you can and should raise a glass to that.

WINES

Ancestral Wine Cellar - Khikhvi 2014 95
First harvest of Khikhvi. Light apricot notes, peach skin, lemon peel. Citric in the mouth, fresh, lively acidity, vibrant. Very holistic, full and deliciously good.
100% Khikhvi · 12% · 30GEL
95 3 Stars

Petriaant Marani - Khikhvi 2015 94
Bruised red apple, touch of lemon peel, limestone minerality, and some white pepper notes at the back of it. High acidity and full in the mouth. Luscious, involving, elegant wine.
100% Khikhvi · 14% · 25GEL
94 3 Stars

Domaine Augustin - Adéodat Blanc 2016 93
Lemon and white peach, strong kick of salinity, and toasted notes. Very fleshy and full on the palate, peach notes more prominent as well as Meyer lemon, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish.
100% Grenache Gris · 14.5% · 20EUR
93 2 Stars

AA Badenhorst - Secateurs Red Blend 2012 93
Forest bramble with ripe red fruit, touches of cherry, ripe red plum, tiny bit of prune, cumin, anise, black licorice, wet cement mineral note, underlying fig jam. Crisp medium plus acidity, medium tannins, medium plus length, medium alcohol, overall medium plus body that’s ripe and lively but super fresh and balanced at the same time. Bit of rugged wildness to it but doesn’t get out of hand. Easy to drink but with just enough underlying complexity so that it stays interesting.
56% Syrah 27% Cinsaut 6% Grenache 4% Cabernet Sauvignon 7% "Others" · 13.5% · 12EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine Treloar - Motus 2015 93
Dark ruby, minor rim. Big, mighty bouquet of red cherry and other brambly forest fruit, vanilla, almond blossom, orange peel, and cocoa. Rich and full on the palate with a wealth of tannins still integrating, leading into a crunchy, lingering finish.
80% Mourvèdre 10% Syrah 10% Grenache · 14% · 14EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine of the Bee - Cuvée 2015 93
Ruby with minor garnet rim. Rich red fruits with an underpinning of ripe plum, orange peel, licorice, cocoa. Broad, round tannins with a touch of toast and sweet cocoa in a long finish. Manages to stay very light on the palate despite the higher alcohol.
50% Grenache 50% Carignan · 15% · 25EUR
93 2 Stars

Tchotiashvili - Khikhvi 2014 93
Apricot, yellow peach, orange peel, and a touch of honey. Quite complex aromatically. Orchard fruit much more prevalent in the mouth with young apricot notes. Rich and elegant, touch of astringency in the finish.
100% Khikhvi · 13.1% · 28GEL
93+ 3 Stars

Domaine Augustin - Adéodat Rouge 2015 92
Medium ruby. Fresh red cherry, raspberry, and young strawberry, lifted and breathy, saline tinge along with light stoniness and rosemary and garrigue. Fresh red fruit on the palate, medium acidity but still light on the palate, fresh, and while the alcohol sticks out a little, holds and excellent, long finish.
Grenache Carignan Mourvèdre · 14.5% · 20EUR
92 2 Stars

Domaine Fontanel - Prieuré 2014 92
Dense ruby with brick flecks. Crisp red fruits, lifted by a waft of volatility making for a light nose with a spicy licorice and leather component. Crisp and lively with red cherry fruit in the mouth and a nudge over medium acidity. Nice, lingering finish.
50% Syrah 25% Grenache 25% Mourvèdre · 14.5%
92 2 Stars

Cave Abbé Rous - Cornet & Cie Blanc 2016 92
Peach, orange peel & blossom, honey, dried apricot, and a hint of green apple. Very nicely balance in the mouth, green apple notes more prevalent, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish. Fresh, lively, very pleasing wine to drink.
60% Grenache Gris 25% Grenache Blanc 5% Marsanne 5% Roussanne 5% Vermentino · 14.5%
92 2 Stars