Recently, we were up at Vinyes dels Aspres to drop off some copies of the Empordà guide and given the time of year, we found David Molas and his assistant down in the cellar bottling. For those who haven’t met David, he is fully and truly the embodiment of “ebullient”. Start chatting with him about his wines and he’ll happily and gregariously tell you everything you’d ever want to know. He’ll also happily have you taste them.
While it was a hot day (which goes without saying in August) and we needed to make more rounds, there was no way we’d pass up on the chance to taste the newest Blanc dels Aspres and S’Alou. The Blanc, perfectly chilled as you can see above, is pretty much ready to drink right away. You might want to let it sit in the bottle a couple of weeks, but it has the flavor profile of this wine that we’ve come to know and love although the minerality in it has been decreasing a bit in the last couple of vintages. The S’Alou needs more time, which is what it will get given that David is going to age this new vintage another two years to let the body firm up and develop, although the nose is already luscious and full.
Both the Blanc and the S’Alou are top Vinologue picks in the guide, so it’s only fitting to share our thoughts on them from the text although there are five other wines from David’s little cellar in Cantallops that are most definitely worth seeking out as well:
Blanc dels Aspres 2010 is a 100% White Grenache that boasts an earthy nose and other surprising elements for a white. The body has less minerality than other years, but still full and meaty. It has a relatively fast finish and is a very enjoyable white that would also be great for red wine drinkers. Year after year, this has proved to be an excellent take on White Grenache in the region. 14.5% 12€
S’Alou 2007 takes its name of the oldest vineyard in the estate. It’s strong in the nose with oak but not in a brash manner. There are tobacco and cherry undertones to the nose as well. The body and finish are both dry, but with a good deal of complexity and balance. Cherry comes in to the body and despite the oak, the wine presents a good deal of acidity that would allow it to be paired with many different dishes, although they’d need to be decently strong. It’s a blend of 60% Grenache along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Carignan. 15% 26€