I adore grape variety summaries such as these: “Widely planted though little recognized”. Where some may see that as meaning a variety exists in a sea of bland obscurity, I see it as a challenge. Surely, even with taking into account volume meant more than quality 50 years ago, if some grape is found far and wide, then there must be some merit to the damned thing, right? The soul who first encountered a certain cross in his/her vineyard didn’t taste the grapes and think, “Oh yeah, this is gonna […]

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