What once was lost: Abadal – Mandó 2016

by  |  22-10-2018

When the spare thought allows, I often wonder how the vinous landscape of Europe would look today were it not for the scourge of Phylloxera in the later 19th and early 20th centuries. The root louse came at the exact time in which wine production was shifting from a small, familiar affair of bottles drank within the village to that of wines which were sent far and wide and produced on a much larger scale. Once Phylloxera had killed off vine after vine and then imported mildews arrived with another punch, those who replanted realized they had a generational opportunity to remake the faces of their wine regions and select only “the best” varieties. The random field blends that had worked for centuries to produce small quantities of wine wouldn’t do as the Bordeauxs and Riojas of the world came into their own as powerhouses of production raising quality standards […]
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