Laserna, Álava, at the border of Basque Country and La Rioja doesn’t offer terribly much in terms of sights. A main road narrowly winds its way through the few houses of the village, the old walls of which, menacingly threaten the rearview mirrors of larger vehicles. Once you emerge on the other side, you follow a single-lane road that slips along the side of el Cerro de la Mesa, a flat-topped hill popping up from the surrounding terrain. Down from the hill tumbles one of the more intense concentrations of […]

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