31-05-2016

ICCWS 2016, Wow!

This past Saturday marked the end of the three day event called, the International Cool Climate Wine Symposium 2016. That lengthy title sums up the event very well as it was three intense days focused upon talking about the work being done in regions that are “cool climate” producing areas. It covered literally everything from varieties to vinification to marketing to enotourism and to put it succinctly, it was a damned impressive conference.

I need to back up and mention that when one is based in Europe and is a wine journalist who writes in English, you naturally find yourself in the UK often. I don’t have much problem with this short of the cost of things reminding me how non-lucrative a career in any form of wine generally is. That said, I try to parse out my visits to be as concentrated as possible and so when I saw mention of this symposium many months back I thought, “Well, seems like an interesting topic. Haven’t been to Brighton. Let’s see what it’s about.”

In talking with some friends in Brighton last Sunday who are wine importers, I think they stated perfectly what many must had thought initially about the event, “Well, obviously it can’t be a serious wine event, those are only in London. Brighton is for the beach!” They, along with multitudes more started kicking themselves for not attending once oodles of highly quotable tweets started coming out of the talks and sessions.

It started with Jancis Robinson’s opening speech that markedly pointed out the uphill battle winemakers in the UK face as they’ve pulled funding from local university programs as well as pulled out of the OIV in what seems to be taking a page from the North Americans. And her summation of English sparkling wine being “hedgerow in a glass” will undoubtedly be the vanguard of descriptors for the style.

We then headed to the sessions where I thoroughly enjoyed a talk about grape varieties that went on at length about the quest for delicious hybrids that can handle adverse growing conditions to the constant search for old varieties. A truly fascinating talk that was just one of many.

And that was the thing as many lesser conferences will pay a Master of Wine to stop in for the day and give an opening speech to lend a air of potential credibility. These then fall flat with some Sarah Sue Summers giving a talk about how a trip to Stellenbosch moved her to import South African wine to Florida or how John Jacobs can help you optimize your wine website to full SEO potential (my apologies to all the Sarah Sue Summers and John Jacobs.) The ICCWS was certainly chocked full of MWs, but they mostly played the roles of moderators in the talks and introduced people that they had found who were actually even greater experts in a certain field of wine than they were. Now that, is a statement of expertise.

What was amazing about all the sessions was the incredibly high level of talks and that the organizers had pulled together an excellent array of people to craft a unifying theme but with all sort of different perspectives to it. I guess they weren’t joking when they said that they started organizing this four years ago once the last one in Tasmania happened and England was announced as the next venue.

Also impressive were the attendees who brought considerable value to the conference as well. I loved the fact that there were super studious science people mixed with heavily “natural” wine people and a range of all others in between.

Those who decided not to go did indeed miss out but there is hope… in four years with the ICCWS 2020 slated for Canada. See you there?

WINES

Ancestral Wine Cellar - Khikhvi 2014 95
First harvest of Khikhvi. Light apricot notes, peach skin, lemon peel. Citric in the mouth, fresh, lively acidity, vibrant. Very holistic, full and deliciously good.
100% Khikhvi · 12% · 30GEL
95 3 Stars

Petriaant Marani - Khikhvi 2015 94
Bruised red apple, touch of lemon peel, limestone minerality, and some white pepper notes at the back of it. High acidity and full in the mouth. Luscious, involving, elegant wine.
100% Khikhvi · 14% · 25GEL
94 3 Stars

Domaine Augustin - Adéodat Blanc 2016 93
Lemon and white peach, strong kick of salinity, and toasted notes. Very fleshy and full on the palate, peach notes more prominent as well as Meyer lemon, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish.
100% Grenache Gris · 14.5% · 20EUR
93 2 Stars

AA Badenhorst - Secateurs Red Blend 2012 93
Forest bramble with ripe red fruit, touches of cherry, ripe red plum, tiny bit of prune, cumin, anise, black licorice, wet cement mineral note, underlying fig jam. Crisp medium plus acidity, medium tannins, medium plus length, medium alcohol, overall medium plus body that’s ripe and lively but super fresh and balanced at the same time. Bit of rugged wildness to it but doesn’t get out of hand. Easy to drink but with just enough underlying complexity so that it stays interesting.
56% Syrah 27% Cinsaut 6% Grenache 4% Cabernet Sauvignon 7% "Others" · 13.5% · 12EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine Treloar - Motus 2015 93
Dark ruby, minor rim. Big, mighty bouquet of red cherry and other brambly forest fruit, vanilla, almond blossom, orange peel, and cocoa. Rich and full on the palate with a wealth of tannins still integrating, leading into a crunchy, lingering finish.
80% Mourvèdre 10% Syrah 10% Grenache · 14% · 14EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine of the Bee - Cuvée 2015 93
Ruby with minor garnet rim. Rich red fruits with an underpinning of ripe plum, orange peel, licorice, cocoa. Broad, round tannins with a touch of toast and sweet cocoa in a long finish. Manages to stay very light on the palate despite the higher alcohol.
50% Grenache 50% Carignan · 15% · 25EUR
93 2 Stars

Tchotiashvili - Khikhvi 2014 93
Apricot, yellow peach, orange peel, and a touch of honey. Quite complex aromatically. Orchard fruit much more prevalent in the mouth with young apricot notes. Rich and elegant, touch of astringency in the finish.
100% Khikhvi · 13.1% · 28GEL
93+ 3 Stars

Domaine Fontanel - Prieuré 2014 92
Dense ruby with brick flecks. Crisp red fruits, lifted by a waft of volatility making for a light nose with a spicy licorice and leather component. Crisp and lively with red cherry fruit in the mouth and a nudge over medium acidity. Nice, lingering finish.
50% Syrah 25% Grenache 25% Mourvèdre · 14.5%
92 2 Stars

Cave Abbé Rous - Cornet & Cie Blanc 2016 92
Peach, orange peel & blossom, honey, dried apricot, and a hint of green apple. Very nicely balance in the mouth, green apple notes more prevalent, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish. Fresh, lively, very pleasing wine to drink.
60% Grenache Gris 25% Grenache Blanc 5% Marsanne 5% Roussanne 5% Vermentino · 14.5%
92 2 Stars

Clos Henri - Petit Clos Pinot Noir 2016 92
Earthy, red cherries, young, crisp cranberry, light herbal notes, leafy, minor chalk. Medium tannins and medium plus acidity as well as length. Light sweetness on the palate but with a very pleasant, lingering structure and lightness to it.
100% Pinot Noir · 13.5% · 16.50EUR
92 2 Stars