03-02-2015

Clos Garsed 1989

clos-garsed

The shortened form of Priorat history goes something along the lines of “The monks came in the 12th century. They made wine. René Barbier arrived in 1979, released a wine in 1989 with four other people. More people came. Priorat is now famous.” It’s an easy version to believe as a) it’s short and b) it’s what you generally hear repeated. There are however large tracts of narrative that are omitted in doing this and they’re quite crucial to understand the actual story.

For starters, wine has been produced in Priorat continuously since the Romans arrived. This information doesn’t have the hard proof to it like other regions in Catalonia such as winemaking ruins under Barcelona but its been made for a long, long time. While often just seen as a Frenchman who popped on down, René Barbier was born in Catalonia and has know the region his whole life which is how he undoubtedly came across the Cellers de Scala Dei 1974 vintage that put Priorat back on the map for a great many people.

Seeing the potential, he did indeed go there in 1979 and the initial vintage was indeed the 1989 one. But it must be explicitly stressed that there were 10 wines released in this vintage which ironically weren’t released under DOQ Priorat as a) it was just “DO” back then and b) because the wines had too low an alcohol level at 12.5%. Yet these wines and the five physical wineries that eventually emerged from them have become known as the vanguard of modern Priorat wines.

A good deal of attention has been paid to these wines as of late given that they just celebrated their 25 year of existence and bottles have been magically appearing that had been cellared all this time. Here’s the thing though, if you’ve tasted any one of them and it’s been properly stored then you’ve tasted all of them as they were all the exact same wine but with 10 different labels.

So we come to Clos Garsed which is one of the five wines from this original series that was a bit shall we say, “forgotten” despite the Garsed family popping up here and there still to make a wine with a Clos Garsed 2009 being the last one I’ve come across. But apparently an older gentlemen passed away recently and his inheritors found that he had quite a wine collection with many classic bottles including a couple of 12 bottle case of this Clos Garsed. They took the case to Vinum in Porrera to see if they were interested in buying some which they did. Of the original 12, now only two remain as many people have been interested to try this wine given the current rarity of any of the bottles. Recently, I was one of the lucky ones to get my hands (along with other friends in Porrera) on a bottle before they finished.

First and foremost it needs to be stated that while obviously stored very properly with a cork in good shape, this wine has long peaked and should have been opened maybe five years ago–note to anyone still hanging on to bottles, you might want to open them soon. That said, the wine still shows surprisingly well but in tasting it, I was merely taking a guess as to how it was and so I won’t give scores this time around as it’s just not a fair evaluation of a wine that most likely held no end of potential at one point. Still quite cool to have gotten the chance to taste a bit of bottled history.

Clos Garsed 1989
Menthol, light balsamic, forest floor, tons of licorice and light cloves, light caramel in the nose. Light and easy on the body. Red fruits and balanced although the depth of this body is fading quickly. Lingering acidity and fruit in the finish. With only 12.5% it makes for a very, very different Priorat from a different era.

Grenache, Syrah, Cab Sauvignon 12.5%

WINES

Ancestral Wine Cellar - Khikhvi 2014 95
First harvest of Khikhvi. Light apricot notes, peach skin, lemon peel. Citric in the mouth, fresh, lively acidity, vibrant. Very holistic, full and deliciously good.
100% Khikhvi · 12% · 30GEL
95 3 Stars

Petriaant Marani - Khikhvi 2015 94
Bruised red apple, touch of lemon peel, limestone minerality, and some white pepper notes at the back of it. High acidity and full in the mouth. Luscious, involving, elegant wine.
100% Khikhvi · 14% · 25GEL
94 3 Stars

Domaine Augustin - Adéodat Blanc 2016 93
Lemon and white peach, strong kick of salinity, and toasted notes. Very fleshy and full on the palate, peach notes more prominent as well as Meyer lemon, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish.
100% Grenache Gris · 14.5% · 20EUR
93 2 Stars

AA Badenhorst - Secateurs Red Blend 2012 93
Forest bramble with ripe red fruit, touches of cherry, ripe red plum, tiny bit of prune, cumin, anise, black licorice, wet cement mineral note, underlying fig jam. Crisp medium plus acidity, medium tannins, medium plus length, medium alcohol, overall medium plus body that’s ripe and lively but super fresh and balanced at the same time. Bit of rugged wildness to it but doesn’t get out of hand. Easy to drink but with just enough underlying complexity so that it stays interesting.
56% Syrah 27% Cinsaut 6% Grenache 4% Cabernet Sauvignon 7% "Others" · 13.5% · 12EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine Treloar - Motus 2015 93
Dark ruby, minor rim. Big, mighty bouquet of red cherry and other brambly forest fruit, vanilla, almond blossom, orange peel, and cocoa. Rich and full on the palate with a wealth of tannins still integrating, leading into a crunchy, lingering finish.
80% Mourvèdre 10% Syrah 10% Grenache · 14% · 14EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine of the Bee - Cuvée 2015 93
Ruby with minor garnet rim. Rich red fruits with an underpinning of ripe plum, orange peel, licorice, cocoa. Broad, round tannins with a touch of toast and sweet cocoa in a long finish. Manages to stay very light on the palate despite the higher alcohol.
50% Grenache 50% Carignan · 15% · 25EUR
93 2 Stars

Tchotiashvili - Khikhvi 2014 93
Apricot, yellow peach, orange peel, and a touch of honey. Quite complex aromatically. Orchard fruit much more prevalent in the mouth with young apricot notes. Rich and elegant, touch of astringency in the finish.
100% Khikhvi · 13.1% · 28GEL
93+ 3 Stars

Domaine Fontanel - Prieuré 2014 92
Dense ruby with brick flecks. Crisp red fruits, lifted by a waft of volatility making for a light nose with a spicy licorice and leather component. Crisp and lively with red cherry fruit in the mouth and a nudge over medium acidity. Nice, lingering finish.
50% Syrah 25% Grenache 25% Mourvèdre · 14.5%
92 2 Stars

Cave Abbé Rous - Cornet & Cie Blanc 2016 92
Peach, orange peel & blossom, honey, dried apricot, and a hint of green apple. Very nicely balance in the mouth, green apple notes more prevalent, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish. Fresh, lively, very pleasing wine to drink.
60% Grenache Gris 25% Grenache Blanc 5% Marsanne 5% Roussanne 5% Vermentino · 14.5%
92 2 Stars

Clos Henri - Petit Clos Pinot Noir 2016 92
Earthy, red cherries, young, crisp cranberry, light herbal notes, leafy, minor chalk. Medium tannins and medium plus acidity as well as length. Light sweetness on the palate but with a very pleasant, lingering structure and lightness to it.
100% Pinot Noir · 13.5% · 16.50EUR
92 2 Stars