Champagne’s terroir problem

by  |  01-04-2019

The train to Champagne departs Paris every hour at 36 minutes past from Gare de l’Est. While the carriages might be from an past era, the trip isn’t long with the congestion and sirens of Paris fading away almost as soon as the doors close. An hour out, the train slows down for its first stop in the town of Château-Thierry. The stop is clearly intentional as it’s there that the vineyards of Champagne begin to gush out along the slopes that fold and roll along the Vallée de la Marne, continuing until after getting off the train in Épernay. In September, just after harvest, some are on the cusp of flashing russet but regardless of leaf color, the vines themselves appear incredibly uniform. The strict edicts of Champagne’s regulating body, the CIVC, are clearly seen as the vines show little difference with their upright shoots. In the first half […]
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