21-12-2016 ~ 3 Comments

Armenian wineries and wines

By way of giving a little background read this introduction to Armenian wines followed by the oldest wine cellar in the world, it will make a review of Armenia’s wine bars more cohesive.

Of course what makes all of these bits stick together even more are the individual wineries. There are only about 55 wineries for the entire country so Armenia is still very much in a growth phase in terms of its overall wine production. That said, they’ve come a lot way in a very short time and it’s interesting to take in an overview of a few of the wineries that I visited.

Armenian Wine

To talk about Armenian wines means to talk about Armenian Wines as this company, founded in 2008 produces something like 67% of all the wine in Armenia which breaks down to about four million still and one million sparkling wines. And then there’s the Brandy they started in 2010. It is most definitely a very, very large production winery with state-of-the-art production equipment that’s all spotless.

In terms of the wines, I found most of them trying to walk a fine line between unique and interesting and not really doing much at all. They’ve recently changed their main winemaker to a German fellow, Josef Watzl who has a pretty linear approach to the winemaking and is bound to change things up a good deal. I don’t think anything we tasted he’d even made so it’s hard to judge what the future of the winery holds.

Takar Sparkling 2014
Produced via Charmat Method it was quite creamy and held light lemon citrus and while light on the palate was very well-balanced and fresh with a clean finish. Have to say that I quite liked it.

100% Kangun
**

Takar White 2014
Six months of barrel aging. Mineral and herbal with the slightest bit of mint, solid citrus in the background. Thick and full in the mouth. Overall plush but still quite closed and unwilling to be terribly expressive.

100% Kangun
*

Takar Areni 2012
Red and dark cherry, forest floor, mushroom, cloves, and medium plus intensity. Medium plus acidity as well with a rich mid palate but is lacking terribly solid integration at this point.

12.5% 100% Areni
*+

Van Ardi

A much smaller affair than Armenian Wine–as pretty much everything else is in Armenia–Van Ardi started in 2012 by Varushan Mouradian who was a CPA in Los Angeles before deciding to take on creating a winery.

They’ve some 9ha of vineyards which are around their winery at 1,100m in altitude. Given this, acidity is not a problem especially with their Kangun grapes. Unfortunately the cold was just starting to set in and it was a bit chilly to give the wines a proper tasting outside so we were sampling mostly from the tanks and barrels.

As such, what really stood out was again the Kangun which in their case produced a wonderfully floral and bursting citrus wine. Given how much character it has, you’d never guess that Rkatsiteli was one of the parent grapes. Then, by comparison, we tried their Rkatsiteli which I didn’t find to be nearly as lively and was generally how I usually find the grape, which is less than interesting. I hope that I can some point I could sit down with all their wines again and do a more proper tasting as I liked their what I saw in their soils a great deal and I feel like great things could come out of them.

Voskevaz

We managed to fit in a trip to Voskevaz which is apparently the oldest winery in Armenia being founded in 1932–well, oldest if you discount the cave one of course. It’s a kooky, kooky place that they’re currently remodeling to look like a Game of Thrones meets Lord of the Rings set. But, this is all being built on top of what was a Communist-era production facility and a bit of that remains with the large, iron tanks that are enamel-lined. The winemaker said they work well for their needs, but I’ve never been convinced of these. Additionally, they were the only winery we visited that made any wines in the karas but at just 10,000 bottles, it’s a drop in the bucket of their 300,000 a year production. Of course it’s what everyone photographed the most.

Rosé 2014
Bit reduced at first, dry and tannic with predominant strawberry notes and overall light fruit.

12% 100% Areni
*

Voskevaz White 2014
Aged in Armenian oak barrels. Light white blossom, charged, decent amount of power to the aromas. Felt oxidized on the palate however with a short finish.

13.5% Voskehat, Kangun
*-

Voskevaz Karas 2015
Vinified in karas but with an oak finish. Sweet vanilla notes were most prominent with a touch of almond nuttiness and dried peach. Very bright and expressive on the palate but could definitely benefit from more time in the bottle.

13.5% Voskehat, Kangun
**+

ArmAs

In terms of overall scope, I’d have to say that ArmAs (yes, the second A is capitalized) was the most impressive undertaking. Sure, planting 110ha of new vines on 180ha is impressive. And sure, having a massive view of Mt. Ararat from every part of this 180ha is impressive as well. But I gotta tell you, while President-Elect Von Clownstick got elected on “building a wall”, ArmAs actually did build one that’s 16km in total and encircles all of their vineyards. Sure, that’s no USA-Mexico border but to undertake such a massive project for a private vineyard is pretty astounding. And this is after they had already terraformed the land to make it suitable to plant vines. Take a look here to get an idea.

Needless to say, I was impressed and the wines showed some of the most robust evolution out of everything we tasted on the trip. A couple of things didn’t work like a Voskehat which was very weak or the Kangun Semi Sweet which was just syrup with no acidity. But the other wines, especially those from Areni and Karmrahyut where impressive and fleshed-out very well.

Kangun 2012
Creamy lees, lemon peel, grapefruit, lightly sweet on the palate and with well-contained medium acidity.

100% Kangun
*

Voskehat Reserve 2013
Quite potent oak notes with some lemon peel and lees work that carries the wine through although a bit unbalanced in the finish.

100% Voskehat
*

Rosé Karmrahyut 2015
Red cherry, white pepper. Full in the mouth, lightly crisp and vegetal. Very expressive acidity that lingers on the palate nicely.

100% Karmrahyut
**

Areni 2012
Rich red fruit, plum, and a touch of tea leaves. Medium body that’s clean, crisp and with a decent finish.

13.1% 100% Areni
**

Areni Reserve 2012
Cedar and dark cherry, prune, and fig with a full, solid body. Nice tannic structure with a medium finish.

100% Areni
**

Karmrahyut 2012
Tea leaves, graphite, cedar, and ripe plum played out with a bit of black olive tapenade. Medium plus alcohol and finish. Damned balanced.

100% Karmrahyut
***

Karmrahyut Reserve 2013
Strong vanilla and coffee notes with dark fruits and currant. Barrel notes are strong on the palate as well with potent tannins and a medium plus finish. Will do well to see a bit more time in the bottle.

100% Karmrahyut
**+

Ijevan

This was the furthest point we went as you get up near the border with Georgia. It was completely different from what seemed to be the majority of Armenia as it suddenly exploded with green, more alpine than high desert steppe.

The Ijevan winery was founded in 1951 and the Communist Era origins are still quite prevalent from the form of the main structure to the large iron tanks that sit sideways as opposed to upright like modern stainless steel tanks. I bring this up as this format makes it very hard to control oxidation due to there being more potential surface area exposed. If you use a neutral gas you can manage with these but in Ijevan’s case they were trying to control it with SO2 which doesn’t do the job.

Due to this, I found all the wines extremely oxidized with the exception of a dessert wine we were served that dated to 1983. I assume they’ve done some kind of top up on it since then, but that was actually quite good and nuanced. So much so that it makes me suspect the winemaker kept it as his own personal stock which shipping everything else up to Russia. Russia by the way is still their biggest client but they’re in the middle of a lot of renovations so we’ll see the direction the winery takes.

General Conclusions

While I’ve been enthusiastic in previous articles, if you look at a lot of scores you might think I got a bit carried away. Don’t let the scores dissuade you as I was approaching the wines from an international grading level. The fact that so many actually made what I consider to be the cutoff for a quality wine (my one star starts at about 83-85 points) is quite exceptional.

I truly believe that there’s a good future for the wines from the country, especially as they’ve just started this Wine and Vine Foundation to work on coordinating such endeavors and create a unified, Armenian wine front. I wish them success.

WINES

Ancestral Wine Cellar - Khikhvi 2014 95
First harvest of Khikhvi. Light apricot notes, peach skin, lemon peel. Citric in the mouth, fresh, lively acidity, vibrant. Very holistic, full and deliciously good.
100% Khikhvi · 12% · 30GEL
95 3 Stars

Petriaant Marani - Khikhvi 2015 94
Bruised red apple, touch of lemon peel, limestone minerality, and some white pepper notes at the back of it. High acidity and full in the mouth. Luscious, involving, elegant wine.
100% Khikhvi · 14% · 25GEL
94 3 Stars

Domaine Augustin - Adéodat Blanc 2016 93
Lemon and white peach, strong kick of salinity, and toasted notes. Very fleshy and full on the palate, peach notes more prominent as well as Meyer lemon, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish.
100% Grenache Gris · 14.5% · 20EUR
93 2 Stars

AA Badenhorst - Secateurs Red Blend 2012 93
Forest bramble with ripe red fruit, touches of cherry, ripe red plum, tiny bit of prune, cumin, anise, black licorice, wet cement mineral note, underlying fig jam. Crisp medium plus acidity, medium tannins, medium plus length, medium alcohol, overall medium plus body that’s ripe and lively but super fresh and balanced at the same time. Bit of rugged wildness to it but doesn’t get out of hand. Easy to drink but with just enough underlying complexity so that it stays interesting.
56% Syrah 27% Cinsaut 6% Grenache 4% Cabernet Sauvignon 7% "Others" · 13.5% · 12EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine Treloar - Motus 2015 93
Dark ruby, minor rim. Big, mighty bouquet of red cherry and other brambly forest fruit, vanilla, almond blossom, orange peel, and cocoa. Rich and full on the palate with a wealth of tannins still integrating, leading into a crunchy, lingering finish.
80% Mourvèdre 10% Syrah 10% Grenache · 14% · 14EUR
93 2 Stars

Domaine of the Bee - Cuvée 2015 93
Ruby with minor garnet rim. Rich red fruits with an underpinning of ripe plum, orange peel, licorice, cocoa. Broad, round tannins with a touch of toast and sweet cocoa in a long finish. Manages to stay very light on the palate despite the higher alcohol.
50% Grenache 50% Carignan · 15% · 25EUR
93 2 Stars

Tchotiashvili - Khikhvi 2014 93
Apricot, yellow peach, orange peel, and a touch of honey. Quite complex aromatically. Orchard fruit much more prevalent in the mouth with young apricot notes. Rich and elegant, touch of astringency in the finish.
100% Khikhvi · 13.1% · 28GEL
93+ 3 Stars

Domaine Fontanel - Prieuré 2014 92
Dense ruby with brick flecks. Crisp red fruits, lifted by a waft of volatility making for a light nose with a spicy licorice and leather component. Crisp and lively with red cherry fruit in the mouth and a nudge over medium acidity. Nice, lingering finish.
50% Syrah 25% Grenache 25% Mourvèdre · 14.5%
92 2 Stars

Cave Abbé Rous - Cornet & Cie Blanc 2016 92
Peach, orange peel & blossom, honey, dried apricot, and a hint of green apple. Very nicely balance in the mouth, green apple notes more prevalent, medium plus acidity and a lengthy finish. Fresh, lively, very pleasing wine to drink.
60% Grenache Gris 25% Grenache Blanc 5% Marsanne 5% Roussanne 5% Vermentino · 14.5%
92 2 Stars

Clos Henri - Petit Clos Pinot Noir 2016 92
Earthy, red cherries, young, crisp cranberry, light herbal notes, leafy, minor chalk. Medium tannins and medium plus acidity as well as length. Light sweetness on the palate but with a very pleasant, lingering structure and lightness to it.
100% Pinot Noir · 13.5% · 16.50EUR
92 2 Stars