It was early March, the morning hours still small, and I couldn’t sleep. Jetlag had something to do with this as I’d landed in Munich just a few hours earlier after a flight from San Francisco. But more to blame was the fact that I was on a train whose movement had started out gentle in Germany and gotten steadily less so as it made its way along the tracks of different nations. Perhaps mentioning that it was an overnight train to Zagreb would also help to explain the non-sleeping […]

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