Finding the finesse in a ‘rancid wine’

by  |  02-01-2017

It may impossible when gazing upon the crumbling slate and the rugged landscape, but in 1893 phylloxera arrived to the Catalan county of Priorat, starting in the village of Porrera. From there it spread rapidly and while replanting on American roots was the solution, new vines only started to take hold in the following decades that also brought the Spanish Civil War. Priorat never really recovered from this period and despite the official denomination of origin being created in 1954, it was by and large a region making basic bulk wine from Grenache and Carignan. This was the state of Josep Vaqué’s village of Porrera in 1964 when Priorat’s decline seemed inevitable. The future was soon to be in the hands of his 18 year-old daughter Conxita, but it looked bleak. Despite this, he decided that he needed more barrels, specifically, caratulls (a local name for a ‘rundlet’) which are […]
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