A comparative tasting of Vins de Taller

As we’ve mentioned before, Vins de Taller doesn’t get a lot of love up in Empordà. This is due primarily to their being just outside the Denomination of Origin and being under the much larger and very unfocused, DO Catalunya. But somehow we ended up with a bottle each of their two last vintages and decided to do a large comparison of the two as while they have some of the most incredibly vineyards in Empordà due to founder Atoni Falcó’s horticultural expertise, they’ve changed up enology work in the cellar recently and as we found, it is quite apparent.

For this tasting we invited local Empordà wine lover Jaume Pallàs as well as local wine blogger, Dani Coll of Envinats to join in and see how things go.

Gris 2013
Pale salmon in color with apricot, white peach, and light strawberry aromas. Good acidity with a medium body and lightly persistent red fruits in the finish.

100% Marselan 13% 6€

Gris 2014
Much more brilliant in color and reasonably similar to the ’13 but with bitter structure and brioche although unfortunately not showing well overall due to cork taint.

100% Marselan 13% 8€

Phlox 2013
Aromas of golden apples, vanilla, and old spices that verge on being rather vegetal at times. Juicy apple in the mouth, grapey, rather wild, and an unfortunately short finish.

40% Roussanne, 30% Chardonnay, 30% Marsanne 13% 6€

Phlox 2014
Much more balanced than the ’13 with better structure and minerality as well as stone fruits, better balance and decent acidity.

40% Roussanne, 30% Chardonnay, 30% Marsanne 13% 8€

Baseia 2014
Astringent mineral notes along with white peach. Smoky, sweet vanilla notes and large in the mouth with medium acidity and lemon peel in the finish.

75% Viogner, 25% Roussanne 13% 13€

Merlot Jr. 2014
Red cherry notes as well as unbalanced vanilla cream, black pepper, and herbs. Volatile acidity is uncontrolled in addition to unchecked vegetal notes.

100% Merlot 14% 6.50€

Geum 2012
Woodsy forest floor and dark cherry aromas. Full and balanced in the body. Overall pleasing but running just short of having any large degree of depth. Very similar to a previous tasting four months ago although the structure of the wine is falling off.

100% Merlot 14% 8.50€

Siurà 2010
Dark cherry, plum, and clove aromas that present a broody, complex nose. Good body but with lingering green notes that creep in to the finish.

44% Marselan, 44% Merlot, 12% Cot (Malbec) 14.5% 10€

Siurà 2011
Young red cherry notes along with light spices including coriander. Full in the mouth with good acidity that’s fresh but at a cost of the overall depth of the wine.

56% Marselan, 27% Merlot, 17% Cot (Malbec) 14.5% 13€