It was 2014 and I was dining in Tel Aviv, bearing witness to a night that wore on with seemingly countless bottles emerging. Despite all that had come before, it took just one, a Carignan by well-regarded Israeli producer, Recanati to make one of my fellow dinner companions go ballistic in my general direction. “Oh look, Carignan. Fucking Carignan! For the last week I’ve just heard you talking about fucking Carignan. Now you have it so I hope you’re happy!” None of this was said with the least bit of […]

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