Ljubljana is mellow. Ljubljana is cool. Ljubljana is not easily pronounced by English speakers until they realize that the ‘j’ is a ‘y’. Once these rather simple stumbling blocks are overcome, full enjoyment of this little capital (only about 200,000 people) of Slovenia can commence.
I’ve visited this small remnant of Hapsburg architecture three times. The first was in 2005 and was just for about two hours on the way to a plane flight back to London, which wasn’t nearly enough time. The second time was last year in 2006 and I spent several days seeing the whole place and loving it despite it being in April and the weather being less than totally awesome. This last time was now, in 2007, in the height of tourist season. Oddly enough, the weather still wasn’t so great. There were some sunny days, but mostly it was overcast and unhappy. Still, it was a good time and I was happy to be there again. So happy in fact that I am pulling together a listing of my favorites of Ljubljana, so here we go:
While closed for holiday on my most recent visit, this Bosnian restaurant makes some of the best čevapčići outside of Sarajevo. Locals might prefer others because they’re meatier, but always insist on going here. They even have kajmak!
I practically live at this place when I’m in Ljubljana. They have great teas and great foods as well. During the warmer months, they have outdoor seating which makes for good times on Stari Trg.
It’s a spot that’s very close to Harambaša and they serve continental style foods that are very, very tasty. I thought it would be a bit cheaper given that it’s outside the tourist center, but still it’s rather reasonable given the quality of the offerings.
Yes, it’s just a pizza place, but I’ve eaten here a few times and find their pizzas to be quite good and the outdoor seating is very nice, looking out on the old town and the river.
Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku
It’s the ice cream that first pulls you in, but it’s the well-made teas and really cozy setting that keeps you. While at the very end of Stari Trg, I really like this place and spent many an hour there last year, writing and attempting to be Bohemian until I got bored of seeing others doing the same thing and went back to my hotel to watch TV. Even still, a great little spot.