Damn you Slovenia!
I was shaking my fist in the air over this article to which I don't have any true investiture, other than to say, watch out for Slovenia. That country knows when they've got you over a barrel, they're going to go for all they can get. In this case, it's water passage rights that they don't actually have any right to, but will undoubtedly get for their scrawny 40km of Adriatic Coast at the Bay of Piran:
"The European Union has called off the next round of Croatia's EU membership talks, over its continuing border dispute with Slovenia."
Tricky buggers indeed. We'll see how much Croatia wants that EU membership now.
24 04 2009 0 comments
Tags: croatia, politicis, slovenia
Slovenian Bears Terrorize Weak French
Concerns over the rising bear population in the French Pyrenees are growing. These bears aren't just any bears though, they're Western Balkan bears, proudly exported from Slovenia. I wrote about this previously when I learned of it happening in 2006.
Sure, people are worried, but they're forgetting about the possibilities that a great many of their most annoying countrymen might get eaten as a result of this. The bears aren't competing for jobs or crossing union strike lines, so what's the problem? They're bears. Just chill and let them take a sheep every now and again. But, if by chance these bears think they're going to cross the border and hit on some jamón in Spain, then I've got six fully loaded answers waiting for those bastards.
06 11 2008 1 comment
Tags: animals, food, france, slovenia
I Have Seen the Shelf Toilet and Am Not Amused
Okay, I admit it, I've written a bit about toilets here and there. Some would say that I might have a fixation with them, but if that's true, then so do some friends and other friends as well as most of Catalonia.
Regardless of this, I must write about the "shelf toilet". I have heard it talked about and even seen diagrams of its operations, but I never thought I would be confronted with one in person, but did at Hotel Park. When looking down at this new porcelain friend I thought, "To say that this is 'not right' is to say that the war in Iraq was a boo-boo." These are evil and if you don't believe me, take a glance down at the photo below and come back for more.
You see, how this works (and really, I wish I didn't know) is that whatever you do sits on that little shelf you see there. There is a little bit of water from the last flush there, but really, it's quite dry and thus, your leavings are just left out to breath until you flush. Yes, it's not healthy. Yes, it's really the last thing most of us want to be confronted with when doing basic bodily functions.
But, then there is the next mechanism in this whole thing and that is the flush. When you pull the handle, a delightful splash of water comes down the shelf and gleefully whisks your leavings off the shelf with a fun sliding action, taking them down in to the part of the toilet where they should have been in the first place. But, because of the water action, things don't always completely flush, requiring more gentle dousing of the shelf by the ineffectual water. Joy. Joy.
Perhaps for those who are fascinated by their own leavings, this is a dream come true. In which case, these people should form a society and have all of these contraptions left in the world sent to them. They are foul and whomever came up with this (I suspect Germans) should be put in a forced labor camp with nothing but a trench latrine and no, there would be no gleeful whisk of water to take away the leavings.
28 08 2007 0 comments
Tags: ljubljana, slovenia, the europe, toilets
A Review of the Park Hotel in Ljubljana, Slovenia
I nearly stayed at the Park last year because it was rather affordable, but ended up staying at the City Hotel instead, which was considerably more expensive, but as I found out, considerably more nicer.
The Park is well, functional. It's relatively cheap accommodation in the center of Ljubljana that can be relied upon to put a roof over your head. What it is not is a particularly great experience. The downfalls that I found were that the rooms were incredibly basic. The beds were okay, but arranged as two sets of bunk beds in each room. So, if you're staying there as a couple, it's not terribly romantic. There is no air condition in the rooms. The bathrooms leave much to be desired. The one I stayed in stank to hell and the shower was very slow to drain, requiring just a trickle out of the shower so that you wouldn't flood the floor of the bathroom. I think the bathrooms were clean, but the ones that I knew were clean were those in the lobby, so they were much better for basic functions short of showering. Beyond all this, there was a massive ant problem. Coming in with any kind of snack is a big problem, because the ants will find it and I was shocked, staying on the 13th floor!
On the upswing, the staff were okay. The breakfast was surprisingly decent. You can stash your luggage there if you need to check out or in earlier or later than your room is available. Lastly, there is both free wifi (which is hell to get working unless you really know how to set up wifi) and free computers for checking email.
If you take all this in to account, I think the hotel is a decent choice for the very budget conscious if only staying 2-3 nights at most. Anymore than this and I would look in to other options in the area.
27 08 2007 0 comments
Tags: ljubljana, slovenia, the europe
The Movia Wine Bar in Ljubljana, Slovenia
I had something of a fond past with the Movia Wine Bar. It was a welcome little glass (or two) of wine on a rainy night in 2006. It was a wine maker that I thought well of and enjoyed the wines of. This has all come crashing down in sad ways upon my latest visit to the wine bar.
Maybe I had my expectations too high, but it really was the same place. The interior was exactly as I remember and there was even the same guy serving wine. It just seems that this spot must be something of a trophy piece for Aleš Kristančič and company. Something that they run at a loss just to keep the Movia name out there. Because, I can't see how having six people in there on a Friday night can keep them in business. Yes, that's all that there were, just six of us. Ah yes and one very snooty, rude, abrupt, arrogant guy running the place.
It was this guy that really started to ruin the place for me. Upon walking in, he wanted to choose our wine for us. He said, "Just tell me what you like" instead of telling us what some of the overblown names for the blends meant in terms of the wine varietals in them. He seemed like he couldn't be bothered to actually serve us. He spent any moment where he wasn't pouring in the back room of the place and when pried about details on the wines, the answers were dismissive single words. I didn't understand his problem, but it seemed we were to get the brunt of his angst.
Then there were the wines. I don't know what's happened to Movia, but the wines I had this year seriously dropped in any depth over what I had last year. They're to the point of flavorless. Those who get paid much more than I to write about wine would probably say that I'm missing the subtleties to which I say no, you're imagining those. I think what I'm drinking is the fact that Movia is more afraid of not having a vintage for a year and will harvest the grapes too early to make sure that there is a harvest as opposed to waiting until the optimum time for harvest in order to ensure that there is enough sun on the vines. Either that, or he is showing some form of insecurity in the wines because he is running out of gimmicks. No, I don't want to go from reds to whites in a flight just because it's different. I don't care if my champagne is opened under water because... I don't know why. And lastly, I don't care if the wine is aged for five years before selling because that is the minimum it can be aged before being released. If the damned thing is ready for bottling in three months, bottle it! Wine isn't about gimmicks, it's about tasting good. Leave the gimmicks for beer makers in the US.
But, above and beyond all this, there was the annoyance at the wine bar of being overcharged 25% on our bill and then getting hassled by the guy at the bar. He claimed that we were reading an old menu, a menu he had given us. This isn't our problem, it's his and making us feel like we're the offenders is outrageous. I can see why friends in Ljubljana don't go there. That was my last time as well and I recommend it to be avoided by anyone else who likes wine. There is another bar further down Stari Trg that seems to be lacking the pretension that I'll definitely need to try the next time I'm in Ljubljana. Or, if anyone else goes there, let me know how it.
24 08 2007 0 comments
Tags: ljubljana, slovenia, smell my cork, the europe, wine
My Top 5 Spots in Ljubljana
Ljubljana is mellow. Ljubljana is cool. Ljubljana is not easily pronounced by English speakers until they realize that the 'j' is a 'y'. Once these rather simple stumbling blocks are overcome, full enjoyment of this little capital (only about 200,000 people) of Slovenia can commence.
I've visited this small remnant of Hapsburg architecture three times. The first was in 2005 and was just for about two hours on the way to a plane flight back to London, which wasn't nearly enough time. The second time was last year in 2006 and I spent several days seeing the whole place and loving it despite it being in April and the weather being less than totally awesome. This last time was now, in 2007, in the height of tourist season. Oddly enough, the weather still wasn't so great. There were some sunny days, but mostly it was overcast and unhappy. Still, it was a good time and I was happy to be there again. So happy in fact that I am pulling together a listing of my favorites of Ljubljana, so here we go:
Harambaša
While closed for holiday on my most recent visit, this Bosnian restaurant makes some of the best čevapčići outside of Sarajevo. Locals might prefer others because they're meatier, but always insist on going here. They even have kajmak!
Čajna Hiša
I practically live at this place when I'm in Ljubljana. They have great teas and great foods as well. During the warmer months, they have outdoor seating which makes for good times on Stari Trg.
Škof
It's a spot that's very close to Harambaša and they serve continental style foods that are very, very tasty. I thought it would be a bit cheaper given that it's outside the tourist center, but still it's rather reasonable given the quality of the offerings.
Ljublanski Dvor
Yes, it's just a pizza place, but I've eaten here a few times and find their pizzas to be quite good and the outdoor seating is very nice, looking out on the old town and the river.
Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku
It's the ice cream that first pulls you in, but it's the well-made teas and really cozy setting that keeps you. While at the very end of Stari Trg, I really like this place and spent many an hour there last year, writing and attempting to be Bohemian until I got bored of seeing others doing the same thing and went back to my hotel to watch TV. Even still, a great little spot.
23 08 2007 0 comments
Tags: food, ljubljana, my top 5, slovenia, tea, the europe
Slovenska Bistrica Makes for Good Times
It's most likely not an area in Slovenia that not a lot of folks have heard of. I was there last year and partied a bit with some distant cousins. The weather wasn't too welcoming, so drinking was a high priority. But upon this return visit, I saw a bit more of the area and it confirmed as I suspected last year, that's it a really great place.
Yes, it's rural life. It's far from beaches and the only form of tourism that might grow more there is agritourism. But even that probably won't boom, since it's a place that a lot of people simply live and work the land, leading pretty normal lives that are relatively stress free. When staying there, you can't help but be pulled in to this as well and as long as you go willingly, life is good. This type of life is not for everyone though and if you need the buzz of the city, then stay away from places like Slov. Bistrica. Even still, if you can find a better way of life than making a salad from lettuce and tomatoes fresh-picked from the garden as you're making it, I would be shocked.
My only fear is that places like this in Slovenia are going to become bedroom communities for those working in Ljubljana. I think anyone could understand the allure. Work in the "big" city (Ljubljana is only 200,000 people or so) and then stay in the nice quite life. It's pretty ideal, the only problem is traffic. I know it well, because I did this and a great many people in the California do this currently. There is no good way to avoid this, but I'm hoping that those in Europe who are starting up this lifestyle find some way to balance it or work around it that's a lot healthier than how people in the US deal with it...
21 08 2007 0 comments
Tags: slovenia, the europe
Yes, the Croatia-Slovenia Border Sucks to Cross
Okay, for those who took me seriously with my article yesterday about Istria joining the EU, let emphasize that that was satire. Crossing the border between these two countries is still annoying and just like everyone had told me, a very long line that backs up for kilometer upon kilometer which you have no choice but to wait for.
The one thing that was true about the previous article is that the technicalities of the border are quite simple. You just flash a couple passports that they don't even look at and that's it; you're in to one country or the other. I found it all quite strange given that the crossing between northern Croatia and Slovenia is much more involved. Therein lies the reason for the article yesterday because it was just weird. But, there is a good reason for it: Croatia done wants them beach tourists.
In the middle of the peak season, it's definitely a pain to get down there. Loads of campers and RV's are trundling their way down the coast in search of a cheap spot to set up and stay for a week or two. Why Croatia wants these tourists so badly has been beyond me for this whole trip other than to say that they want to the easy, quick money that they bring. Naturally, there isn't much money if they aren't staying in a proper hotel or pension, preferring to bring their beat up camper trailer from circa 1974 to sleep in and they buy the cheapest food from the cheapest supermarkets. But, such are the choices of the current Croatian authorities.
So, some tips to avoid the lines:
- Don't cross on Thursday, Friday, or Saturday
- Try to cross in the early morning or better yet, the late night.
- Don't cross on a Monday when Croats may be coming back in after a weekend in Italy or elsewhere and subject to search because they're the only people crossing who have import restrictions.
- Don't drink a lot of liquids before going, because the worst times take an hour or two to go just a few kilometers and while there are plenty of trees, there are no toilets.
- I can't believe I'm saying this, but if you have a motorcycle, use it. I saw these guys blast around me all the time just because they could. And if one or two people aren't in car, it makes the line all that much smaller for the rest of us.
- Find the back roads. The new, main auto cesta is always backed up. The old road may have more curves, but definitely less people at peak times.
- Lastly, make sure you car is tuned up and not going to overheat, because I saw many a weaker car sitting by the side of the road with a bunch of sad faces in the back seat.
09 08 2007 0 comments
Tags: borders, croatia, istria, slovenia, the europe
Slovene Tea or Slovenski Čaj
Having never really spent much time in Slovenia and having spent a good deal of time in Croatia, I assumed that the tea situation here was much the same as across the border; basically, that it sucked. I have been pleasantly and happily surprised to find that this is not the case. They understand tea and make it very, very well. They do loose leave and they do bags and they like it.
Croatia has a national brand called Franck and it is pretty horrible. Slovenia also has a national brand that you seem to get anywhere which is called 1001 Cvet. I believe that this translates in to 1001 Flowers, but I am not sure since my Slovene is rather lacking. It is not a bad tea at all. In fact, I quite like it. Of course, it does not compare to the two tea shops I have spent much of my time at on Stari Trg (Old Square) in the old town. One is at the end at Stari Trg 30 and the other is more towards the center, but I do not know the address. I also can not remember the names, so I am being a complete ass in writing this.
The one shop more towards the center (cross the main bridge, hang a right and walk about 200 meters or so, it is on your left) does all loose leave brews in traditional ways and has a really wide selection. It is such a nice place that I would love to see something like it in San Francisco. Maybe this already exists and I have yet to discover it.
Naturally both of these places serve coffee (kava) as well and for those who like coffee, they say it is damn good. The one advantage of the one at the end of Stari Trg is the fact they have a good assortment of ice cream and you can never go wrong with ice cream. All that may be lacking or off-putting with the tea in Croatia is more than made up for with the ice cream. Damn it is good. So good. So damn dig didley good.
07 04 2006 0 comments
Tags: slovenia, tea, tea reviews
Downtown Ljubljana to the Airport
I should have listened to my cousin, Marko and taken a taxi. I only realized this as we were coming back around on the mammoth loop that the bus from downtown Ljubljana takes as it winds out into the surrounding country on the way to the airport.
The bus is cheap (less than $5 if I'm converting correctly) but it takes awhile. I guess a taxi for a group of four probably would have been cheaper. It certainly would have been faster. I believe that it's only a 20 minute trip that way and close to an hour on the bus.
The other big problem is that you need to get the Slovenian Tolar which is a joke of a currency. It's about 200 of them to the US Dollar and the bus station will not take credit cards. So, you go in get 10,000 SIT, get your bus ticket and look at the rest of the currency in your hands and wonder what the hell you're going to do with it, since London exchange agencies won't touch the 200 SIT notes as they're only 50p. If there was ever a country that needed the Euro, this is it. Luckily, between us, we had enough left over for lunch, which was good as we were hungry and food is very cheap there. It also "forced" us to see a bit of the downtown which was quite nice and requires more a trip sometime in the future.
The bus is definitely convenient because it's right next to the train station, but this is also a central hub and we were unfortunate to get on the bus the same time all the school kids were and it was extremely packed with no where to put luggage.
Once again, take the taxi from downtown Ljubljana to the airport. I think things will be a lot easier, although the airport is so incredibly small, even getting there "late" won't make it that hard to get on your plane.
