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Fresh on the tail of my Top 5 Croatian Reds, I thought it would be timely to mention my favorite whites for the year. While solidly a red drinker, I was shown the glory of being that is the white wine in the Mediterranean, where even the Chardonnay tastes good (no idea what they do to crap it up in California). These may not be whites for white lovers, but at the very least, they're damned fine wines:              5. Pošip Čara - Marko Polo       Pošip is the primary grape of Korčula and for a reason. They do it very well there. Even though this is from a large producer, it's still a very tasty and mild white that can be enjoyed anytime despite the cheesy name.              4. Demian - Malvazija       In the south of Istria, they make mighty fine wines, despite the shafting they get from the establishment. This is a solid example of the whites made here.              3. Kozlović - Malvazija       Way up in the north of Istria, they're making whites like this that are crisp, sweet, delicious and perfect. This is one that you can get in the US and worth every penny it may cost.              2. Zigante - Vero       An Istrian maker who have this barrique version of the standard Malvazija that is a perfectly balanced wine.              1. Bibich - Lučica       Heaven in a bottle and from an area that isn't known so much for its whites like Istria. It's a blend of several whites in the area including one called Debit. The newest vintage that's just been bottled is flat out incredible and as far as I've heard, already sold out!

There's been a lot of wine drinking in Croatia this year for me and after two months, sampling the entire coastal productions, I have a really good idea of what I like and what I don't like. The title of this post really gives away the meaning, so I just wanted to share with all the rest of you my favorite reds coming out of Croatia this year:              5. Kiriđija - Dingač       An older fellow on Pejlešac, he makes a very good and deep Plavac Mali grown in the Dingač region of that peninsula.              4. Demian - Barrique       The only Istrian member to the group because while I haven't tried every wine from Istria, this is a mighty fine vintage of Terran.              3. Bibich - Mantra       A finely crafted wine. The newest vintage blows away all previous editions.              2. Baković - Plavac Murvica       A real surprise, since I tasted the wine so long after meeting the maker. I call it the 'perfect plavac'.              1 (tied). Zlatan Plenković - Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru       I don't know what wine could knock this out the number one spot and I suspect it will be there for some time to come. It's a beautiful Plavac Mali that is barrel-aged to be one of the tastiest wines in the country. Try and find it if it doesn't sell out before you can.              1 (tied). Svirče - Ivan Dolac Eko       Brilliant, just like the Grand Cru and it makes sense, seeing as how they're maybe 15 kilometers from each other on the same island. This wine has all the sophistication of the Grand Cru, but in different ways that let it be just as tasty a Plavac Mali, while being its own wine.

Ljubljana is mellow. Ljubljana is cool. Ljubljana is not easily pronounced by English speakers until they realize that the 'j' is a 'y'. Once these rather simple stumbling blocks are overcome, full enjoyment of this little capital (only about 200,000 people) of Slovenia can commence.       I've visited this small remnant of Hapsburg architecture three times. The first was in 2005 and was just for about two hours on the way to a plane flight back to London, which wasn't nearly enough time. The second time was last year in 2006 and I spent several days seeing the whole place and loving it despite it being in April and the weather being less than totally awesome. This last time was now, in 2007, in the height of tourist season. Oddly enough, the weather still wasn't so great. There were some sunny days, but mostly it was overcast and unhappy. Still, it was a good time and I was happy to be there again. So happy in fact that I am pulling together a listing of my favorites of Ljubljana, so here we go:              Harambaša       While closed for holiday on my most recent visit, this Bosnian restaurant makes some of the best čevapčići outside of Sarajevo. Locals might prefer others because they're meatier, but always insist on going here. They even have kajmak!              Čajna Hiša       I practically live at this place when I'm in Ljubljana. They have great teas and great foods as well. During the warmer months, they have outdoor seating which makes for good times on Stari Trg.              Škof       It's a spot that's very close to Harambaša and they serve continental style foods that are very, very tasty. I thought it would be a bit cheaper given that it's outside the tourist center, but still it's rather reasonable given the quality of the offerings.              Ljublanski Dvor       Yes, it's just a pizza place, but I've eaten here a few times and find their pizzas to be quite good and the outdoor seating is very nice, looking out on the old town and the river.              Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku       It's the ice cream that first pulls you in, but it's the well-made teas and really cozy setting that keeps you. While at the very end of Stari Trg, I really like this place and spent many an hour there last year, writing and attempting to be Bohemian until I got bored of seeing others doing the same thing and went back to my hotel to watch TV. Even still, a great little spot.

I think that I'm at something of an end to covering specific locations in Croatia, although I'm sure I'll revisit some areas again here as they seem pertinent and I'll be writing some larger articles about larger topics.       I've left Croatia behind a few days ago and had some time to reflect on the places that I saw and the people that I met. All of this was during high season, so I saw everywhere in the worst light possible: freakin' hot and full of beach tourists. Given that, I realized that even in the darkest depths of high season, there are a great number of places in Croatia that are worth seeing because they're just good spots. These appeal to me because they are scenic, or interesting, or pretty, or something else that makes them better than you basic tourist trap that you see in one day and then want to move on from. So, without further ado, here are my Top 5 choices:              Pelješac       This peninsula that sticks off the coast above Dubrovnik is not heavily touristed. The only thing that most people see is the road that runs up to the ferry in Orebić to take you to Korčula. Really, this is the place to go if you happen to like wine, because there is a growing wine industry in this area. Other than this, there isn't much there besides relaxing and not beach relaxing mind you, because while the water looks nice, it's not so good to swim in. This all adds up to a perfect time for me.              Međimurje       Regions at borders are cool. People speak three or more languages and because of migrations and the fluidity of borders, people in these areas are easy going. I did another article about this area that goes in to more detail, but suffice to say, it's all part of the tourist no fly zone north of Zagreb and so it is very, very relaxed. The landscape is gorgeous as well.              Skradin       This little gem had long been forgotten about. Then then new Auto Cesta opened up and it was a toll exit. Suddenly, people have found it again and with good reason. It's charming. It was ethnically mixed during Yugoslavia, which meant problems after the breakup, but ultimately gives the town a very textured look to it, not clinging to one Empire's aesthetic. It is also mellow and while there are a few tourists that find their way here, I can't see it being a huge destination unless they choose for it be, since there is no beach. If a tourism industry grows up here, I assume it will be a sustainable one due in no small part to the businesses of Alen Bibich.              Istrian Interior       The coast of Istria is hell during high season, but just 10-15km away, there is the interior. This heart-shaped region is awash in lovely little hilltop towns, great wine, food, and of course truffles. Yes, the tourists have found a lot of the spots in here, from when they get bored at the beach and start wandering. But, outside of high season, the tourist that goes here is the one that I like. They're foodies and winos and those are usually good people in my book. Oh yeah, there are the cyclists as well, whom I'm not too in to, but they're a small group that moves quickly.              Western Korčula       Sure, I know what you're thinking, "But, I've actually heard of Korčula!" Sure, many people have or the mispronounced, "Korkula" as some sandy-beach-horny Irish girls I met called it. The thing with this island is that the people who go there, go to Korčula City. It's small, so a lot of them are day trippers. If you actually stay on the island, you'll find that there is a whole western chunk of it that isn't visited much. Somehow the damned Czechs have found any and all hidden beaches, but to such a smaller degree, that it's quite civilized. And, if you happen to be there just out of high season, the place is completed deserted. Oh yeah, that and they make wine :)