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Continued from November 20, 2006 ...After endless stretches of the clear blue waters, I started to think, yes this is a nice sea, but wouldn't it be nice to see something else? As if to answer my question, we started to go a bit more inland, which took us from the glistening waters; to be shuttled along some of the most amazing farmlands I have even seen in my life just south of Ploče. There are these neat little rows of different crops growing next to each other at whatever angle someone felt would be good that day. It's a far cry from the large quilt-like patches of homogenous crops that we see growing across the US. It's a funny thing to think that this spot where the Neretva River forms a wetland delta used to be a massive source of malaria for the inhabitants, but is now one of the most fertile (and beautiful) areas in the whole country.       Pulling out of the Neretva delta, we ran parallel to the Peljesac Penninsula, eventually coming to the Bosnia Herzegovina border. As odd as it seems, there is this very small strip of the country that interjects into Croatia to grab a little bit of the coast, a bit to the north of Ston. Historically, I've been told by Croatian friends that this piece of land was given to the Ottoman Empire by the old city-state of Ragusa (which Dubrovnik was the capital of) in order to provide a buffer between them and the encroaching Venetians. How much truth there is to this, I've never been able to find out, although it sounds like the sensible kind of thing that the Ragusans would do. They were masters at maintaining independence for centuries despite being directly between the Ottomans and Venetians.       The border was nothing to worry about, since they checked our passports, were slightly bemused in seeing Americans, and let us on through to the 10-15 kilometers that the road runs through. We actually stopped in this little strip of land, and it was most certainly not in an official capacity. Apparently, the drivers used to pick up large piles of goods while in Bosnia Herzegovina because they got them at nearly 25% less than in Croatia due to the fact that there were no, or at the very least, were less taxes there. This explains why there were few markets in Neum, which was an otherwise barren area. We were delayed a good half hour by the drivers doing their shopping and going to multiple markets to get the best prices. It was annoying, but we had little choice. I'm sure that the temerity of the drivers was more than likely due to the fact that there were few of us on the bus at that point and they felt they could probably do as they pleased with little consequence. It turns out that in the years since my ride, the Croatian government has been cracking down on this by having police ride the buses at random. With a couple of cases of beer on board, the shopping was done and we passed back into Croatia, which was even less of an issue than passing in to BH...       Continued on November 22, 2006

Having ridden the American Greyhound line and various Amtrak connection buses that are one step away from soul-crushing in their perfunctory practicality, never would I have thought that a bus ride could be so beautiful, lulling, and inherently dangerous. These thoughts kept beating through my head as my traveling companion and I twisted down the Croatian version of California Highway 1, the E65 from Split to Dubrovnik.       Due to our ride from Zagreb to Split, we were a little cautious as to what bus line we picked. You see, after cruising along for about six of what was then an eight hour trip, the bus immediately pulled off to the side of the road somewhere within the vicinity of a major town called Knin. It heaved, sputtered, and died a rather sordid mechanical death right there in the middle of nowhere. In the flash of a second, a ball of flames erupted up the side of the bus, next to me. Naturally everyone ran off, they put out the fire, started tearing apart the bus and in a few hours, sent another one that was short a few seats which made for an uncomfortable ride for those who had been displaced by this exploding bus fiasco. Eventually though, we did arrive in Split and spent a few days there before venturing on to Dubrovnik.       Once done with Split and having departed the drab bus station, I'd have to say that the initial part of the ride is lovely. It twists and turns along the side of the Adriatic Sea, showing all the glimmering waters below. Occasionally, we'd stop in a smaller town along the way (like Omiš with its never-ending beach) to pick up more passengers or drop off some of the ones that were on board, but these were quick stops. Old stone homes were perched alongside new ones, as it is just about anywhere in Croatia. But, whatever their age, the homes, businesses, and old fortresses cling like nervous birds to the steep cliffs.       Bus drivers for these lines have a tendency to drive a bit maniacally and I'm sure it gets worse as the tourist season and coastal traffic moves into high gear. They will pass other cars on these narrow, steep roads. They will tailgate. They will curse beautiful strings of Slavic profanities in the general directions of slow drivers they feel who are not driving in a manner of which they approve. I highly recommend sitting on the side of the bus closest the mountainside if you're used to driving, or just don't feel as suicidal as the bus drivers. I say this because sitting on the side closest to the sea is much like flying. You feel as if you're hovering above the Adriatic and as romantic as that sounds, it can make you nauseous in very little time...       Continued on November 21, 2006

The one big problem in studying a foreign language is that then you want to go to foreign countries. It's one thing if it's Mexico or Canada since you can drive to those, but when it's Europe you've got a problem. There are no weekend trips to Europe.       I am reminded of this each day as I head over to Berkeley and the lovely sign pointing to SFO is poking at my eyes. I suppose he's there to remind that yes, it is really close and yes, it will get you away from the idiotic Art Academy children/students living in the dorm across the street who are yelling and making all kinds of noise as I write this at 1:30 in the morning because really, private art schools don't take up that much of your time. Once again, a reason why real artists go to public schools. You gotta work it when you in tha publick.

Ah, nothing like Linux. It appears that my peeps in Croatia have decided to adopt Linux and other Open Source technologies to drive their government systems.       After my last trip in April, you start to see that their options in Europe in general revolve around Windows or Linux. Really, no one uses a Mac. Sure, you'll see one here and there, but it's not like a cafe in SF where half the machines are Macs and the other half some kind of Windows (or Linux) setup.       I should add that there is a third choice that a lot of folks exercise, which is to just steal the software. Seems to be very popular and it makes sense, as a copy of Windows for we average schmoes is $300 or whatever and for a computer vendor is $100. What's up with that? It costs nothing to produce the disc once the system has been created.       My best wishes to Croatia. I am actually getting the nerve up to toss Linux on my new Thinkpad, but only in a virtual machine setup, since I loves my DreamWeaver so much. I suppose I could go the other way though as well. Huh, a thought to think about.

So, fresh on the heels of my pleasureable tea experience in Ljubljana, comes the confrontation of Franck again. Oh Franck, how I hate you so much.       But, as I was looking at my cup I was having in Maksimir Park over the weekend (beautiful place by the way), I realized that it was not the fault of this poor unsuspecting bag. It started life on a bush, growing and happy. It was plucked, shipped and then ended up in a bag in Zagreb. It is innocent, just the victim of circumstances.       I realize now that it must be the near-total mob control of tea distribution in Croatia that has led to this disaster. Franck is like the Starbucks of this land. They sniff out any who deviate from the norm and muscle them in being part of the "Franck Family". I see no other way for this to make sense. You see Franck signs everywhere.       Maybe someday this will change and better tea will be brought forth to the country, especially if they join the EU. Until then, Franck will continue its stranglehold on this poor, unsuspecting country.       You know, to be honest, it is not as bad as I remember. It is still crap, just not as bad a crap. I guess I will go and raise its rating in the tea area.

When I was in Croatia in 2004, I had this tea that I found to be their version of Lipton, called Franck. It was terrible and I've ranted about it before. I didn't really think it could get any worse, but as of my last trip, I've discovered Cedevita, which seems to be a company that got encouraged by the fact Franck could sell such a horrible product and thusly looked to out do them.       Bad is pretty much a compliment with this stuff. It's something akin to drinking slightly flavored sawdust in a bag. Naturally it doesn't help that the Croatians are more in to coffee and you usually don't get hot enough water to brew with, but even when properly prepared, this stuff is foul.       I found it funny that I ran in to it for the first time up in Zagreb. It's probably because they have what appears to be a manufacturer plant on the outskirts of town (you can see it on the train from Zagreb to Ljubljana.) But it may also be just because it's cheap. Whatever the case, it should not exist and honestly it's surprising that it does as I've had tea that, while I don't recognize the brand, is good tea in Zagreb. It seems that they've been catering to the more western palates there for awhile and where this bastard tea came from remains a mystery.

In one word, it is called "Franck" and quite franckly, it's pretty damned awful. My heart goes out to the poor people who have to work in the factory where its produced, since they're making a really lousy product. Of course, tea consumption in this former Socialist country is not what it is in places like Russia or England, so its understandable that it may fall behind the curve a little bit. Even with taking that into account though, I think this stuff is in a class lower than Lipton.       Being a tea snob is of course a hard thing, since you expect the stuff to taste good and you get spoiled being in the US where we import every kind of tea leaf that's good. For instance Mighty Leaf www.mightyleaf.com is some great stuff, albeit for people who really want the stuff. You just can't get anything like that in Croatia, except for Zagreb where they have a better selection of teas. Along the coast its either Franck or some kind of fruit tea that's actually worse than Franck because it's inordinately sweet and has no blessed caffeine in it. On the other hand though, I hear their coffee is superb, so if that's your thing, you're in luck.       So, just keep in mind. If you're a tea drinker going to Croatia, bring your own supply and get ready to ask for hot water, because Franck will make your mind go crazy.