My Top 5 Croatian Reds for 2007

There's been a lot of wine drinking in Croatia this year for me and after two months, sampling the entire coastal productions, I have a really good idea of what I like and what I don't like. The title of this post really gives away the meaning, so I just wanted to share with all the rest of you my favorite reds coming out of Croatia this year:

5. Kiriđija - Dingač

An older fellow on Pejlešac, he makes a very good and deep Plavac Mali grown in the Dingač region of that peninsula.

4. Demian - Barrique

The only Istrian member to the group because while I haven't tried every wine from Istria, this is a mighty fine vintage of Terran.

3. Bibich - Mantra

A finely crafted wine. The newest vintage blows away all previous editions.

2. Baković - Plavac Murvica

A real surprise, since I tasted the wine so long after meeting the maker. I call it the 'perfect plavac'.

1 (tied). Zlatan Plenković - Zlatan Plavac Grand Cru

I don't know what wine could knock this out the number one spot and I suspect it will be there for some time to come. It's a beautiful Plavac Mali that is barrel-aged to be one of the tastiest wines in the country. Try and find it if it doesn't sell out before you can.

1 (tied). Svirče - Ivan Dolac Eko

Brilliant, just like the Grand Cru and it makes sense, seeing as how they're maybe 15 kilometers from each other on the same island. This wine has all the sophistication of the Grand Cru, but in different ways that let it be just as tasty a Plavac Mali, while being its own wine.

30 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: croatia, my top 5, smell my cork, the europe, wine

Truffles are really Quite Strange

Truffles are strange little individuals. They look pretty funky and smell really strongly. Staring at one, you would either think that it came from outer space or a cow.

I haven't tasted the ones in France or Italy, but have recently been introduced to those in Istria in great abundance, where the market seems largely locked up by a one Zigante. Even still at any farmers' market, you'll find people selling them privately or opening up their coat to sell you some black market style because in theory, truffle hunting is supposed to be tightly regulated in Croatia, but countless hoards do it out of the bounds of the government oversight. Just listen for the sounds of dogs (or 'brek' as these type are called in Croatian) roaming the countryside in the fall when they harvest.

As for the taste, it's an acquired flavor. For those living in Europe, not so much, since they've been tasting them most of their lives. I at first didn't care for truffles due to the smell, but once you get that flavor in your mouth, it's true that they are hard to let go of. But, since they seem to be grown many places throughout the world these days, you can taste them as often as you want as long as you're willing to pay. And that's the catch because they could easily plant more trees where the truffles like to grown, but they won't because it would drop the cost of the little buggers.

Some people get crazy about truffles and imbue them with all of these holistic aspects like the fact they're in aphrodisiac. In reality, I doubt any of this and if they cost as much as the common potato, people would think a lot less of them. Still, I do enjoy them and if there is the option on the menu to get a dish with truffles on it, I'll give it a try. I just don't do it all the time, because there is great truth in having too much of a good thing.

25 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: croatia, food, istria, truffles

My Top 5 Untraveled Croatian Locations

I think that I'm at something of an end to covering specific locations in Croatia, although I'm sure I'll revisit some areas again here as they seem pertinent and I'll be writing some larger articles about larger topics.

I've left Croatia behind a few days ago and had some time to reflect on the places that I saw and the people that I met. All of this was during high season, so I saw everywhere in the worst light possible: freakin' hot and full of beach tourists. Given that, I realized that even in the darkest depths of high season, there are a great number of places in Croatia that are worth seeing because they're just good spots. These appeal to me because they are scenic, or interesting, or pretty, or something else that makes them better than you basic tourist trap that you see in one day and then want to move on from. So, without further ado, here are my Top 5 choices:

Pelješac

This peninsula that sticks off the coast above Dubrovnik is not heavily touristed. The only thing that most people see is the road that runs up to the ferry in Orebić to take you to Korčula. Really, this is the place to go if you happen to like wine, because there is a growing wine industry in this area. Other than this, there isn't much there besides relaxing and not beach relaxing mind you, because while the water looks nice, it's not so good to swim in. This all adds up to a perfect time for me.

Međimurje

Regions at borders are cool. People speak three or more languages and because of migrations and the fluidity of borders, people in these areas are easy going. I did another article about this area that goes in to more detail, but suffice to say, it's all part of the tourist no fly zone north of Zagreb and so it is very, very relaxed. The landscape is gorgeous as well.

Skradin

This little gem had long been forgotten about. Then then new Auto Cesta opened up and it was a toll exit. Suddenly, people have found it again and with good reason. It's charming. It was ethnically mixed during Yugoslavia, which meant problems after the breakup, but ultimately gives the town a very textured look to it, not clinging to one Empire's aesthetic. It is also mellow and while there are a few tourists that find their way here, I can't see it being a huge destination unless they choose for it be, since there is no beach. If a tourism industry grows up here, I assume it will be a sustainable one due in no small part to the businesses of Alen Bibich.

Istrian Interior

The coast of Istria is hell during high season, but just 10-15km away, there is the interior. This heart-shaped region is awash in lovely little hilltop towns, great wine, food, and of course truffles. Yes, the tourists have found a lot of the spots in here, from when they get bored at the beach and start wandering. But, outside of high season, the tourist that goes here is the one that I like. They're foodies and winos and those are usually good people in my book. Oh yeah, there are the cyclists as well, whom I'm not too in to, but they're a small group that moves quickly.

Western Korčula

Sure, I know what you're thinking, "But, I've actually heard of Korčula!" Sure, many people have or the mispronounced, "Korkula" as some sandy-beach-horny Irish girls I met called it. The thing with this island is that the people who go there, go to Korčula City. It's small, so a lot of them are day trippers. If you actually stay on the island, you'll find that there is a whole western chunk of it that isn't visited much. Somehow the damned Czechs have found any and all hidden beaches, but to such a smaller degree, that it's quite civilized. And, if you happen to be there just out of high season, the place is completed deserted. Oh yeah, that and they make wine :)

20 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: croatia, my top 5, the europe

And They Call Spaniards Lazy Part 1

The Spaniards get a lot of crap for the midday break that they take. It's usually around two hours and because most people outside of Spain are there on holiday and don't have this system, they complain about it a lot. It's true that if you don't plan lunch carefully, you're screwed since the whole town shuts down during this time, but then again, they're open a lot later, which I'm sure most people enjoy. I for one happen to really like eating at 10 at night. Many people don't realize that the Spanish work day is at least eight hours long and sometimes much longer during the summer hours.

Why this gets criticized is beyond me, when you start looking at the coastal Croatian work hours. I've put some real gems down below showing they essentially take the same exact breaks, but in reality work considerably less hours. There is a good deal of common sense to this, since the middle of the day is ruthlessly hot along the Adriatic during the summer. My only issue is that no one should be pointing fingers when this is a pretty common practice all along the Mediterranean.

17 08 2007      3 comments

Tags: croatia, spain, the europe

The Slowest Drivers of Croatia

It may come as a shock to readers, based on several articles about driving in Croatia, but I have done a good deal of driving in Croatia lately. Naturally due to the fact I really don't like driving I don't really like this activity, but it was necessary to visit wineries and sites that needed drinking and seeing.

But, in driving around a heavily trafficked area in the height of holiday season, I have come to find groups (based on their license plates) who are slower drivers and more frustrating than others. Obviously this is not to say that all people from these groups are hell, just a great many of them. So here with go with the list:

The Dutch

Sweet lord they drive slow. They also love to drive in groups making it impossible to pass them. And then, toss in the fact that they always have caravans attached to their cars and it's all quite a package. On this trip, I was alerted to the fact by more than one person that the Dutch are the cheapest of the cheap in Europe, so it's no wonder that the caravans dominate the roads, since they allow heavy money saving in resort locations.

The Hungarians

I've liked every Hungarian that I've met. So, it came as something of a shock to see them putting along like they do. For awhile I actually thought they were the slowest drivers, until of course I was confronted by the aforementioned Dutch. Still though, they really don't go fast out there on the open roads and I feel like such a crazy American when I pass them doing the speed limit.

The Germans

This was the real shocker. I've known Germans who tear up the road. They drive ferociously fast in both Germany and from what I've seen, in the US. Amazingly, in Croatia, they just crawl along. While definitely not the slowest, they are among some of the slowest that I've seen. I think it must have to do with being worried about the police harassing them because they're German, but given their general attitudes in the towns where I've seen them staying, I refuse to believe that they'd be that cautious.

16 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: cars, croatia, the europe

The Istrian Auto Cesta

I love the A1 road coming from Zagreb out to the coast. That thing is amazing and I took the old road the last year that people had to take the old road, so I do indeed know the difference. Being able to cruise at whatever your car will allow, whether that's 120km (like my effin' Toyota Aygo) or 200km if you happen to have a Porsche and feel like getting friendly with the Croatian police, is some good driving.

There is another artery which is in Istria, called the A8/A9 or, the Istrian Y. The A8 stretch is rather good, despite the fact it is only four lanes intermittently. The A9 is another story. It has maybe 5km or four lanes throughout the whole thing, so passing on it is a nightmare. For most of the trip you're stuck behind old, Dutch or German caravans that put along at 80km. It makes what should be a half hour trip something more like an hour from the border to Pula.

This is an element that I can deal with, since I was driving during high season. It's the fact that the authorities in the area have the balls to actually charge for this that hurts my common sense. There is one toll booth in the middle of it that costs about $3 each way. It doesn't seem like much, but when you're making multiple trips, it adds up. Also, there is the fact that you're taking what feels like a relatively straight country road and being charged for this. The Bay Bridge in San Francisco costs $4 one way and that's a bridge! There was no simple bulldozing to make that happen. They had to span some serious stuff to get that bridge in there and it cost billions to build.

I don't know what's up with the Croatian motorway, but for those set to take it, I think that at certain points the old back roads are faster because you can avoid the caravans. Anyone moving slow on those old roads can be blown by quickly because they're just chasing butterflies.

14 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: cars, croatia, istria, the europe

Croatian Road Signs are Tricky

More than just once or twice, those tricky fellows with MMTPR (the ministry of sea, tourism, transport, and development) have gotten me good. They'll put up a sign somewhere and you'll think, "Why yes, yes, yes, it appears that I need to turn right where this signs says to turn right." Ah, but no. The actual turn may be hundreds of meters ahead and there will be several other turns before it that all seem like potential candidates. Taking one of these, you pump your fist to the heavens and shout, "Curses MMTPR, you have won again!!!"

In time you learn to question the innate sense of turning where a sign says to turn, but then sometimes it happens that those are the correct turns. So, in reality, you can't win and you have to somewhat go with traffic or just get used to double backing. The locals have no issue with this because naturally, they know where everything is in these areas. It's just the tourists who get jammed up and well, I can't blame them for not caring about this, since I wouldn't either.

The one issue where this is a bigger problem is in Pula. When you come off the main road, it's about two kilometers in to the center. It took me an hour to travel this road, so yes, I really could have walked it faster. Was there an accident or the four horsemen of the apocalypse in the center with everyone needing a picture of War (since we all know that War is so much cooler than Antichrist, Injustice and Death)? No, nothing nearly so fantastic. The problem stems from a road sign that is improperly placed. You see, there is a sign that points to the left for the center at an intersection. Except, that this isn't the center, it's a supermarket. So, those unfamiliar with the area turn in there, then immediately realize their mistake and try to turn back out, creating massive congestion at this intersection as they try to continue on to the center. About 200 meters further is the actual turn and it's all gummed up there because of this. I almost fell for it myself, but quickly realized what was happening and got out of it.

This is one incident where the signs affect the locals by screwing up their roads. Of course, once again, they probably know ways around this, since I'm guessing it's been like this for years and based on other spots I've seen like this, it will remain the same for some time to come.

13 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: cars, croatia, istria, pula, the europe

Grožnjan is Good Tourism

Compared to what generally happens along the coast and especially in Umag, the tourism in Grožnjan seems like it is from another world. We visited this small, Istrian village on a hill several times because it's a wonderful spot that is inviting, warm, and charming. It is all that the coast is not. Sure, you can't tan there, but it's only 15km from the coast, so if that's what you want, go there for the day.

What makes Grožnjan work is most likely the fact that they haven't had tourism explode and that it has grown over time, making the people think about how to make it work and most importantly, how to maintain people visiting them. The town can be packed with people, like we saw in the recent Jazz festival that happens there yearly, but you don't feel it. I don't know how they do it, because the town is tiny with maybe 1,000 people in it at most. The parking lot (which is astoundingly fre to park in) can accommodate a great number of cars, yet you'll still find yourself strolling the streets in relative serenity compared to the cattle crush of Dubrovnik in high season.

But, they aren't just saying, "Here's our town. Come. Buy. Uh... something or just give us money for... something." No, they have cute shops with local art and culinary delicacies that ply to tourists, but at the same time create an economy that isn't based upon renting rooms and waiting tables. If some of these products are good enough, they could even, [gasp!] export them in the off season when tourists aren't there. Yes, that's right, it's a sustainable system that produces products for sale and consumption. It's an incredibly basic concept that has long been ignored on the coast.

I think the most amazing fact is that while I'm sure the tourism ministry of Croatia gives them some money, I credit the people of Grožnjan for creating all of this because they certainly don't get a lot of press to do it. The powers that be seem more interested in promoting places like Hum, and Buzet. Both of these towns are nowhere near as nice as Grožnjan.

I wonder if they people who live in Grožnjan are a bit happy to keep things the way that they are, since it appears that they are all making a decent living there and were pretty happy. There weren't the bitter shopkeepers who would rather spit in your face than sell you a half liter of milk, as we experienced in Savudrija.

12 08 2007      2 comments

Tags: croatia, groznjan, istria, the europe, tourism

Umag is Bad Tourism

As you're coming from the north of Europe in to Istria, you'll see a big pile of cars turn off towards Umag in Croatia. They head there for beach, sun, and sitting around. They are the type of tourists who have been coming to this area for the last 50 years or so and for some reason, the Croatian government finds themselves in a need to promote for more of these people to come during the summer holidays. So, there will be more of them in years to come no doubt.

The end result is that a place like Umag (Umago in Italian) is a pretty revolting place. It's a tiny town that is overrun with people who do nothing but tan and come in search of a cheap destination, which actually isn't there anymore because of an over-development of tourism. It's a smaller version of how I felt that Rovinj has been abused.

But, this is the case in a great number of the Croatian coastal towns, especially those in Istria because they are so close to the borders of the EU. So, it really comes as no surprise that things are like this. The surprise is that Croatia at large seems to want more of this. I know from personal contact with the people living in these towns that they hate this time of year, yet they all seem to go along with renting rooms and taking part in making tourism happen there. When asked why they do this when they don't want these people there, they will usually tell me that they have no choice and they have to take the money because it's all they get. I find this to be lazy, specious reasoning because in reality, yes, the tourists are incredibly trashy and annoying, but at the same time, they are easy cows for the milking, so people go along with it.

The sad truth in this is that the people on the coast are not developing a tourism industry that is sustainable there. It is a boom from June to August and that's it. As a cousin of mine in Zagreb pointed out, "The sea is nice when it's not hot also. It's good air and relaxing." And he's right. People come year round to places in Italy and Spain that are along the coast because they have developed and industry of travel. By doing what the coastal Croats are doing, they are sticking themselves in an ugly pool of very brown Germans and British that they have to cater to. They don't allow for any other kind of industry to build up and they fail to create a travel (as opposed to touristic) industry in the area where the are.

Anyways, Umag is just a small example of a greater problem and one that the Croats will need to deal with soon on a local level, because those at the national level are just seeing all the tax moneys roll in and don't care what happens there.

I apologize for not having the standard picture to accompany the article, but I was so revolted by Umag that I stayed there all of 20 minutes before I had to leave and the scene was so ugly, I wanted no memory of it.

11 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: croatia, istria, the europe, tourism, umag

Rovinj Deserves Better

Undoubtedly, when you take size in to account with amount of appeal, Rovinj is one of, if not the loveliest towns in Istria. I first visited it in 2005 and loved it. It has a charming allure to it that hasn't been spoiled by being too developed or overblown with touristic apartments. Admittedly, I was there at the end of May and it was something of a quiet time for the city. Sure, there tourists, but not scores of them and it was pleasant to stay there and chill out. The Hotel Rovinj, where we stayed, wasn't glamorous, but it worked and had a great view.

Now, I return two years later at the peak of tourist season in August and well, I wish I had never scene the town like this. The piles of trash beach tourists are too numerous to count. There is crap like guys on sound systems getting people to toss basketballs. There are fat, old tan men walking around with their shirts open. There are guys in speedos with bellies. Woman in their 50's walk around looking like leather in their bikinis they are far too old to wear. And most importantly, everyone just strolls around like cattle. The vast majority of them buy nothing. They shop for food outside the town at large supermarkets that are cheap, then they just use the town like a museum, walking around without buying anything.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that there is a Jägermeister DJ stage set up and anyone who knows about Jägermeister knows that wherever it goes, unter-classy, out of control drunkenness follows. I think this was the final straw that, after a 20 minute walk through the old town, I had to leave.

It's just sad to see because it's such a nice town and these idiots that go there in search of beach have no place there. There is one spot to swim in the old town proper and that's a set of rocks that jut out from the Hotel Rovinj. That is not a beach. People who want beach should not go there. They should stay away. British in search of their panacea "sandy beaches" should never go there. But for some reason all these people are here. I don't get it. But I do understand this crowd and the fact that they're going to probably just get bigger with time and that I can never, ever, under any circumstances go to Rovinj from June to August. Doing so will just make me sad...

10 08 2007      0 comments

Tags: croatia, rovinj, the europe, tourism