The post-harvest *lavinyeta visit
I seem to be hitting up *lavinyeta about twice a year these days to check in and see how things are going. After my first visit in 2007, things have grown a great deal. From something like six hectares they had in production two years ago, they are up to 24 now out of a potential 40. As I noted in my second visit, this has changed the structure of the Heus Negre and Llavors a good deal with these other vines now able to be used. It also bodes well for Josep and company as his wines have grown in popularity a great deal. The 2006 Puntiapart was the official wine for a very important EU cultural festival which naturally made not only the 06 vintage sell out, but also the first bottling of the 2007 vintage. Not bad for a 12€ wine, which is considered highly-priced in a country where 3€ buys you a great wine. Oh yeah, the label of the 2007 Llavors won a design award for its weather report/newsprint label that was quite cool.
This visit saw a lot of tasting from the stainless tanks as there remains a great deal of bottling to do for Josep in the coming weeks. Naturally, everything was solid, although I found the initial wines for the Heus Blanc to be a bit tart for my tastes. The bottled version mellows out considerably and makes for the solid white that it has been in years past.
This trip, I took my brother in-law with me who is rather new to the whole wine tasting thing, but growing to appreciate it. At first he wasn't too sure about tasting directly from the tanks given that that is how one gets bulk wine in these parts and it is not a method for drinking high quality wines. He expressed further doubts when we moved through the wines to a side by side comparison of four different Garnatxas that were going in to the Llavors and Puntiapart. Surely the differences would be minimal? Was it really worth the time to taste all these different fields of wine even though they're the same grape? I mean, two of the tanks are from the same field albeit one from a lower field terrace than the other.
From my experience in the Dingač region of Pelješac in Croatia, I learned that just the slightest change in angle of a field makes a considerable difference to the end result of the grapes. Suffice to say, my brother in-law was really surprised. Out of all of these, the most interesting where the two tanks that were from the same field at different terrace levels. The sun is the same, but the earth is just slightly different for the two and it resulted in one with a strong body and little nose and the other with all the nose, richer finish, but little body. For a winemaker like Josep, this must be heavenly to mix those two and get something golden in the end.
The end result of this trip is that I vote for the Llavors at the moment as an immediate purchase. At 7€ it's a screaming deal and is a luscious 'gift to the world' as I told an abashed Josep. The body is strong but smooth. There are slight chocolate undertones to it. The fruit stays back while letting their flavors trickle out slowly with drinking. It's a reserved, yet strong wine that I assume is best had now or in a year or two is for some reason you feel like aging it. Great with a meal or great on its own.
Don't get me wrong though as the Puntiapart is still the better of the two wines, but at 12€ it's a bit more costly. If you can afford it in large amounts, go for it. It's much more complex wine overall and is something that I assume will age well with the body get more pronounced in a year or so. I appreciate the fact that Josep could cash in on the fame of this wine at the moment and pump out the next vintage for people to buy, but he doesn't and is holding back the amounts that require more aging. Really, you can't go wrong with anything out of lavinyeta including the forthcoming sweet wine that is yet to be bottled for consumption despite the photo below.
Such a difference two years have made from only being able to find lavinyeta wines at his parent's meat shops around the area to now having them available anywhere, including the United States soon as they now have an importer for the East Coast of the country.
30 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: catalonia, garnatxa, wine, wine reviews
Spanish 'easy open' technology still in beta; maybe alpha
If you glance below, you'll see the result on my tempting fate and using the 'obertura fàcil' (or 'abre fácil' in Castellano if you will) tab for a package of pasta. Didn't turn out so well. This is not a surprise. Spanish food vendors know that 'easy-open' is the shit because they see it everywhere in the US. But that being as it may, they still have some back-to-the-drawingboard time to spend on their actual implementation of non-knife-needed packaging systems. Of course Spaniards are no where near as fat as Americans, so maybe it's for the better that you gotta fight to get at your food in Spain.
29 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: food, packaging, spain, the europe, us america
Suck on that San Francisco
Time and again, San Francisco comes up as the go-to example of a public wi-fi failure. It's not a surprise as the Mayor is an incompetent ego-maniac and the City Council all want his job bu have forgotten that they need to theirs first. Essentially, there is never any consensus in city government and so little gets done except to stare in the gaping maw of a half a billion dollar deficit for 2010 because everyone keeps pushing their special interest programs. By the way, that deficit (we're not talking budget here) is more money than the annual GDP of 20 countries in the world.
Barcelona may have twice the population of San Francisco, but somehow they're able to run things a great deal better. The Metro flies along very nicely, the city is cleaner, and events thrive without shootings. It's also the case that Barcelona has deployed a public, city-wide WiFi network. Now, I haven't used it yet and will have to check it out on Tuesday when I'm there again, but the fact that a city which is not in the heart of all that is web, where internet is vastly more expensive is able to do this just goes to show what a dysfunctional heap San Francisco is these days.
Who knows, maybe San Francisco will get better soon, but in reality, I'm betting it will get a lot worse in the next six months or so. Honestly, it needs to and I'm planning accordingly...
27 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: barcelona, politics, san francisco, wifi
The approach of a people
Every other day, I've been trying to go on a run around the castle above my in-laws house. Unfortunately my knee has been giving me problems lately, so I haven't been running as much as I'd like. This period of idle exercise time has made for an idle mind and there was something that was pissing me off every time I'd go for a run which was the graffiti that some bored kids had decided to spray on the back of a power substation tower. Naturally, it was pretty weak graffiti as it was painted by pretty weak hoodlums. In theory it wasn't that big of a deal, but it was getting to me as it had been there for a long time.
I went down to a general store on the Rambla, bought a can of cheap white paint, went up the hill and painted over it. All told it took about 20 minutes of my time and a couple of Euros of my money. No one saw me paint over it and no big deal was made of it. I did it because it bothered me and because no one else was doing anything about it. I did it because despite my split nationalities, I grew up as an American and my grounding in all things practical lies with the can-do attitude of the US.
This is an element of the US that I like a great deal. By and large, it's missing in many Europeans countries. It's obvious why as all of us in the US are descended from those who came to the country with this spirit in mind. There is a downside to this way of doing things though in that can-do leads to a head down, self-centered manner of thinking that is concerned about the individual first and everything else second. It doesn't have to, but it is often the case. When it gets out of hand (and up until the recent economic meltdown, this attitude had gotten so out of hand) it was rending at the foundation of the country. One can only hope that in that strife, there is progress and advancement; not just dead-end polemics.
As way of an alternate example, Spain is a great deal different than the US. Beyond canonization of the pig, this is a socialist country. Yes, for an American that brings up all kinds of allusions to the Red Scare, but socialism is an absolute necessity. It's just a shame it has been forever tainted in American English by shortsighted individuals half a century ago and now as a very thinly-veiled racial insult towards Obama. But Spain looks after its people. If those in power don't, they are quickly not in power. People don't tolerate a malfunctioning government. They expect that if they're ill, the state is there for them or when they're unable to work, again, the state is there. Education is free because it is for the society. This is sorely reminded of when seeing that my former university in California is now $10,000 USD a year to attend when it was 25% of that a when I graduated nine years ago.
The society like the one in Spain seems ideal. But much as how the can-do individualism of the US can too far in one direction, so can the faith in the state. People get complacent. They stop fighting for what they get and those who are power hungry slowly erode away all that was gained. So you end up with some American-Croat with a can of paint going nuts on cleaning up the neighborhood because not only is the local government not cleaning it up, no one is even calling anyone to come clean it up.
Every two or three days I make a run for croissants (and occasional xuixo, god those are good...) and I pass the Rambla in Figueres. There, beneath the shade of the trees in the lingering breaths of summer in an atypical November sit the old men discussing the latest construction projects and the old women talking about how bad their son's wives are. I watch it and realize that as important as I think painting out some minor graffiti is, if in Spain there exists Death's Waiting Room, then help me find a number so that I may sit on a Rambla bench and wait my turn when I grow old.
26 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: catalonia, spain, the europe, us america
A slow, gradual worship is fine, Figueres
While meandering around the internet, I came across the Wikitravel page for Figueres, where I happen to be at the moment. For some odd reason (I'm assuming the American background) I always feel compelled to update, correct, or add to Wikipedia articles. This is especially the case on Wikitravel articles as I often find things in there that are so ridiculously incorrect, racist, ignorant, or just spamful that it drives me nuts.
The page for Figueres only had one spammy link and it was okay overall. But, the page was really out of date, a lot of the code was quite broken and the article on this small, nice town was really focused on the Dalí Theater in town. Admittedly, it's the largest reason why people visit the town. Kind of a double edged sword in that it brings in a lot of foot traffic, but they're often the most dreaded of tourist: the beach tourist.
That all being what it may, I've spent a lot time in this town and I know that there is a good deal more to it than all things Dalí. I realize that most people don't really give a rat's ass, but at the same time, for the minority that may, I wanted it to be known. It also gave me a chance to really dig in to editing a Wikipedia article in detail which was good practice, since it is quite different from regular HTML as well as liable to get "edited" by those with their own agenda.
You can view the article before I started with it here which was last touched nine months ago. As you can see, someone dumped a lot of HTML in to the page, which is a no-no in WikiLand. The photos were also just kinda plunked in there. The Eat section didn't really mention anything that was specific to Figueres (really, Chinese food in Catalonia?) A great number of sections had absolutely no content, including how on earth to actually get to Figueres in detail.
After seeing all this, I went apeshit and added in just about everything I know from the town and a lot of my photos. You can see the currently finished product, here. I think it's a lot more appealing and hopefully others will as well. Yes, there still is a lot on Dalí, but there is information on other things as well, such as the castle, the Rambla, restaurants that are actually Catalan, and a number of local shops. Naturally, I expanded the hell out of the wine section, since that's really quite good stuff around here.
At this point, most people would see any future edits to this page to be disastrous. I did indeed spend about two days working on this, but as for edits, I welcome them. The beauty of Wikipedia is that it drags people in. Someone might see this and go, "What? He didn't list that restaurant?" and then go and add it. It might also call others to create another language translation of the page since there is more of a source to start with. Basically, having information calls for more information to be added and so I hope that this page will expand even more than it has already.
Now, I'm just waiting to see how much of this gets ripped off by a Lonely Planet author or one of the rest of their ilk. This information is based on months of being in the town. For those authors, they would probably spend at most 2-3 days here and pick up what they felt was adequate, which in reality, isn't. So, be wary if the Figueres section suddenly gets a large expansion in the next LP or Rough Guide for Catalonia/Spain. You know where it came from!
25 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: catalonia, crowdsourcing, figueres, wikipedia
Mas Oller and the Baix of Empordà
Any discussion about Mas Oller in Baix Empordà first needs to start with a bit of a Catalan lesson. You actually pronounce 'oller' like 'uhl-yay' and 'baix' is similar to, but not exactly like 'bash' in English. Just some of the joys of the language, which has complexities to it that are easier than, yet similar to French, while considerably more difficult than Spanish because yes, Catalan is not a dialect of Spanish, but its own language.
Linguistics aside, Mas Oller is one of the new wineries to spring up in the DO Empordà region. It's rather ironic that there are all these new wineries given that wine has been grown in the region for the last 2,600 years, first brought in by those saintly Greeks. I wasn't aware of it when I went for a tasting, but apparently this year was the very first release. They planted the 12 hectares of vines on this old estate back in 2000 and this was when they felt the fruit had enough flavor to properly produce the wines, which says something as you get decent production after five years and they could have started a good deal earlier.
Located near the small town of Torrent, the vicinity where Mas Oller is located has not been historically known for producing wines as Baix Empordà in general was a great deal more fertile than Alt Empordà. So the land was used primarily for farming other crops such as wheat, corn, and other general vegetables. In fact the owner of the estate, Carlos Esteva was actually making wine over in the much more well-known region of Penedès before starting up the Mas Oller winery.
I found the wines favorable overall and we tasted a great variety, starting with those that are bottled now in the first year of release and then moving to the tanks to taste what is yet to come. First on the list was the 2008 Blau ('blue' in English.) It's a mix of Syrah and Garnatxa. Obviously this leads to a wine deep in color. It's initially soft on the palate but gets a bit more bold with air and remains quite fruit forward all along. I would probably best equate it to being like a $25-30 Zinfandel from Napa, although this wine is 8€.
Next was the 2008 Pur. It's a blend of Cabernet, Syrah, and Garnatxa that spends two months in French oak. The bouquet is quite plush in the mouth initially and the wine is rather bold overall. In fact, there's an element to this wine that was somewhat present in the Blau, but is really present in this wine that pisses me off, which I call the Factor de Pijoficacion (yuppie-fying). This wine is overtly strong. It is not subtle and it costs 12€. This is rather expensive in Spain (think $50 in the US) and the wine is targeted at those with no taste for wine who want to act they have a taste by spending a lot. It's a trend that is extremely present in the wines of Perelada (which I hate nearly all that they make) and I blame them a great deal for influencing other winemakers in Empordà. Needless to say, I am not a fan of this vintage, especially at this price, and it takes a lot for me to say that about a Catalan wine.
The last bottled wine we tasted was the namesake Mas Oller 2005. This wine made up for everything I was hating in the Pur. It's a blend of Cabernet and Garnatxa that spends a year in French oak. The result is lovingly smooth and delicate. Light berry hints are balanced with vanilla from the time in the oak. The finish is just clean enough to sweep everything away, but leave a lovely, lingering note of the wine. A very well-constructed vintage. For some reason, this top of the line wine was priced at 6€. My brother in-law and I bought out everything that they had remaining. I guess they were clearing it out for the new vintage and we were happy to help them with this process.
From the barrels, we tasted the Mar, a white that's fresh and tropical in nature, but definitely needs to be chilled to 12C for enjoyment. Then there is their Rosé or Rosat, the Aquare-lo (meaning 'watercolor') which is an enjoyably clean and light Rosé. I don't typically like these wines, but this one fell in to the category I enjoy, which is to cleanse the palate and act as a refresher wine.
Lastly we sampled a sweet Malvasia, which is the first time I've a) had this wine in Catalonia and b) had it as a sweet. In a word, it's awesome and I can't wait for it to be bottled. It's like drinking honey and almonds. It's not quite as clean in the finish as I prefer a sweet to be, but given the flavors it leaves behind, I can forgive it.
This was an interesting first tasting of this winery's first year of releases. I'm curious to see which direction they head with the next if it will be moving towards more of this Pijo crap that seems to be what a lot of Spain is producing these days and targeting towards the export market. As long as they don't mess with the Mas Oller, I will be a happy camper/customer.
22 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: catalonia, emporda, wine, wine reviews
CD's and corks yes, but yard trimmings, no?
It was at the end of last summer that I saw these receptacles and was applauding the local government of Figueres for allowing people the ability to recycle CD's, corks, light bulbs, and a whole slew of other odd, but regularly consumed items. I'm now beginning to think that these receptacles all just dump in to a single trash can at the bottom of the stand though.
What makes me wonder that is the fact that I was getting a bit too much internet and decided to help out my in-laws by trimming up the bushes in their front yard. They appreciated the work. I appreciated the fact that I will no longer hit my head on the low fig tree branches when chasing the Puppy Terror. Naturally, this all seemed well and good until I went to actually dispose of the trimmings and other green waste.
I asked my mother in law to kindly direct me to the proper bin as a number of them are green. She told that there wasn't one. Oh, in that case, I'll load it in the car (somehow) and take it one nearby. No, there aren't any in that there are none. In the whole town. As far as she has searched. What? How can a town that lets you recycle your mobile phone on the street not have bins for completely, of the earth, compostable material? They just don't, that's how.
So naturally, what does one do with this waste? Toss it in the trash? Oh no, that's no good as they'll refuse to pick up the trash bin. So, you end up doing what you the rest of the neighborhood does and you either bag it heavily to hide it in the trash or you dump it by the side of the trash for... I don't know what to happen, some kind of fire I suppose. Naturally, you end up with a pile like you see below. You also end up with me, in one of my less grand moments, sneaking out with my mother in-law at midnight with a handtruck and five massive black plastic bags of yard trimmings to throw in the damned trash to go to the landfill!
I have to say that this is one instance where California beats Spain's ass. Yeah, I know Spain, you can wave that jamón leg back in our faces while taunting the fact that you only allow 27 of them to be exported to the US a year, but still, no green recycling? I mean, I know San Francisco is progressive in general (except when it comes to picking non-insane mayors) and our goal of no waste by 2020 seems crazy, but come on, tree and bush stuff as about as recyclable as you can get. And every major city in the state has this in place. This is all insane as when I looked in the waste bin the next morning, all I saw were covertly dropped bags of green waste that others had dumped 'a chorizo'. Ah, is that what it is? Your recycling programs are so efficient that you actually have no real waste and if we didn't sneak in green waste disguised as actual waste, there would be nothing to pick up? Because if it isn't, shake off the sangría and wake up to green waste!
21 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: catalonia, figueres, recycling, the europe
A trip down Capmany way to Arché Pagès
I have to admit that I actually visited Capmany last summer, which means that I also visited Celler Arché Pagès last summer as well. Why am I getting around to writing this now, in November? Some of it is just a touch of sloppiness and some of it is that I was all blogged out after writing my ass off about the Maker Faire Africa and Ghana in general over on Subsaharska. So here I am now, with a number of Catalan wine articles to write and am finally getting back around to the lovely trip I had up to this winery.
The family behind Arché Pagès has been making wine for the last four generations with the current winemaker, the son, Bonfill taking over in his mid twenties; lucky bastard. This name is a very old Catalan name which was his grandfather's and it means, "good son". Obviously, it's a bit to live up to.
There is a lot to appreciate about this winery in regards to their praving approach to winemaking. For starters, they found out that old milk pasteurizers were mighty cheap, very large, and worked extremely well as wine tanks for aging. They are in process of replacing all of this, but apparently for starting out, they worked just fine. Then there's the fact that they actually need to both chill and humidify their cellar. Why both? La Tramuntana, that's why (that fucker.) It dries out and warms the air among others things, like knocking around your house while trying to sleep, or blowing you off the castle walls when trying to run...
But of the 14 hectares that they grow on and produce 40-45,000 bottles from, there is enough Garnatxa to go around so that every wine has some. We saw a similar approach in Cantallops where there is a strong belief in the power of Garnatxa as it is an awesome wine. Anyways, on to the wines themselves.
The Sàtirs Blanc has a tart, melon nose that is quite refreshing. The fact it gets no oak leaves it a bit dry, although it is generally rather plush. There is a touch of peach and pear to it, but it remains rather bitter at the end. Then there is Sàtirs Negre (or red) which is very light, gentle wine of about 40% Garnatxa, 30% Cabernet, and 30% Carinyena. There are touches of licorice and mint to the nose, but it loses a good deal of this on the finish, while at the same time remaining quite clean. It should noted that since tasting this year at the winery, I've tasted the new 2005 release and find it to be a great deal more enjoyable with brighter flavors and more bang for the buck.
The Cartesius starts to get more bold. The nose is stronger with a great deal more oak, but it still retains the fruit and berry elements that you find in the Sàtirs. The body is quite dry, but not in an unpleasant manner. The 50% Garnatxa, 30% Cabernet, and 20% Merlot mix works quite well in balance as well as dusting out a touch of sour cherry on the body as it breathes more. Although, overall, I didn't care much for this year, but am anxious to see where the new vintage has gone.
The Bonfill is their top of the line wine and is the namesake of the winemaker. It's 70% Garnatxa and 30% Cabernet, but more importantly, it spends 14 months in new French oak. Apparently they tried American oak with a small batch but didn't care for it. The nose is deliciously smooth with cinnamon and spice to it. The French oak really comes through on the nose as the vanilla heats up quite quickly. The body is wonderfully smooth and clears out very well. Definitely a tasty wine that I've enjoyed since the visit as naturally I bought some of it.
Overall, you can taste the youth of the winemaker and that the wines have some work ahead of them. At the same time, they are indeed quite strong as they are and solid for everyday drinking, especially after I tasted the new Sàtirs Negre.
20 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: catalonia, the europe, wine, wine reviews
Watch the winds across Empordà
I've mentioned the Tramuntana before. It's a wicked wind that blows through Empordà pretty much all the time. Apparently it also exists with the same name up in Southern France, which makes sense as the name is a derivative of "from the mountain" meaning that it's a cold, bastard wind. It's hard to really put it in to words though, which is why I took a video from the terrace of my in-laws place in Figueres to show how it sweeps across the plane. This video is obviously sped up a great deal, but at the same time, it illustrates the constant churning of this wind and why it tosses around any flight I take when coming in for a landing in Girona or Barcelona.
12 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: catalonia, figueres, spain, the europe, weather
Who would have thought travel gets harder the more you do it?
I'll start out first and foremost by telling you that this article is borderline bitching about certain aspects of travel. If you're sitting in a cubicle, hating life, I would either recommend to skip it or skip to the bottom where I talk about solutions to the problems I'm about to dig in to. Your choice. There are some good links though, so maybe just click on those before reading my feelings on the American passport...
Passports
Your standard American passport used to get sent out with 18 blank pages for entry/exit stamps and visas. These days, I believe it has 24, but mine is from 2002 and is a bit behind the times. With regular stampings, you can fit 72 entry and exit stamps in there. This seems like a lot and traveling within a huge chunk of Europe these days is just two stamps despite going to multiple countries thanks to blessed Schengen.
I made one trip in 2003, one in 2004, one in 2005, one in 2006, and then a whole bunch starting in 2007. My passport currently has one blank page in it and I have to keep it for another 2 1/2 years, but in some regards, I'm screwed already as the problem lies in visas. To get a visa, you officially need two blanks, facing pages in your passport when you apply for the passport. That eats up pages really fast and it means that if you only have one blank page, you've got a problem. Africa has been eating up pages at a large rate and this won't decrease at any point soon as I need a visa to travel to every country there except South Africa, Senegal, Namibia and of all places, Equatorial Guinea (that would be due to all the oil.) There is a solution to this problem which is to send in my passport, have the government cut out the stitching and add in several more pages. I've seen this done and the passports look like utter crap afterward. Never before has a prav happened at so high a level.
The idiocy is that they just won't simply issue you a new passport even if you fill up the current one and you can only add pages twice. Dumb, yes. Thankfully, if I'm in a really tight bind, the two years of work and the decent amount of application and research money I put in to getting my Croatian passport comes in really handy as it has 29 blank pages and they're "freeform", meaning you can put more than four stamps on a page.
Of course, once the time comes to get a new passport, you can put a small note in the application to get the bible-port, which has 52 pages and is as thick as a prayer book. There is no extra cost to get this and if peak oil doesn't nix flying in the next 10 years, it will probably be an option that I take, despite the fact I'll need a separate bag just for my passport.
But this is really indicative of the American attitude in that hardly anyone leaves the country. Most estimates place the amount of citizens with passports at 20% on the high end and 12% on the low end. I realize that the US is a very large country and so you might never need to leave it, but at the same time, never leaving it makes for all the inbred thinking that we have to date towards the rest of the world. And really, we should all have passports, or better yet, a Federal ID card so that my Social Security Card stays private.
Customs
I'm a bit stumped as of late because I'm getting questioned a lot more when I enter countries. As I mentioned above, my passport has a lot of stamps in it and I would think that would show I travel a bit and am just popping through, no big deal. But no, in London they asked my duration of stay, profession, where I reside, where I am returning to, what I was going to do in England (twice) and then let me through. Even returning to Spain from London, I was asked a number of questions, which has never happened before including how much Spanish I spoke. That was just bizarre as if the agent was going to say, "¡Aha! ¡You said you speak un poco, not un poquito Español! ¡You are obviously going to work illegally here, even though it is Catalunya!"
On a certain level, I really don't mind this as it's a reminder that just because you have an American passport, you don't have a golden ticket to go anywhere else in the world, despite what idiots who go hiking in Iraq and get captured by Iran think. But, I just wish that there would be a consistency to it, although wishing for world peace would probably have more of a chance in being granted. I mean, is it the worry that I might abuse my ability to enter so easy and will work under the table, or worse yet, sell my sugarlumps on the street? This has really only come about as of late and while London was pretty much typical with the general xenophobia there, Spain was more of a shock.
Of course, my other theory is based on the fact that I had no problems in Paris when I flew in, in October. They glanced at my passport and thought, "Huh, American. 4,000th one today. Welcome to Paris, now shut up." The other airports I was flying through were Gatwick in England and Girona in Spain. It's possibly the case that the border agents in these airports feel especially important as they're at minor airports and they have to prove something, thus harassing people more, although they will probably let everyone through. Unless of course you're African or Muslim (or god forbid, both), in which case you get no end of trouble. Again, this is why I don't mind a bit of a hassle when going through as others have it far, far worse. I just wish they would choose some level to be consistent with it.
09 11 2009 0 comments
Tags: airports, immigration, passports, the europe, travel
